RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey Guys! I've been updating some cars lately and I have a question. Originally, I built my RC10 Tekin conversion without the active rear suspension. I did that because at the time, I didn't have any long rear hinge pins. Fast forward 15 years and I've acquired several basket case RC10s and a few sets of long rear hinge pins that are not bent. So, I'm finally building the kit as the manual intended. Though, I did convert to B3 wheels and add shiny CVDs

Anyways, in the manual, it says to shorten up the rear stroke using spacers. I'm guessing adding 3 or possibly 4 red o-rings would do the trick or maybe switching to a 1.02 in stead of a 1.32 shock shaft. What are you guys using?

I'm also adding a set of Lunsford turnbuckles and updating the steering rack with an AE worlds version. If you can't find any Lunsford online, it was probably me. I'll take a pic or two once I get it all back together.

1.02 shaft definitely works and allows more oil in the body. Use a ASC 6466 for the spacers or some leftover spacers from the shock rebuild kits.

I'm running 1.02 shafts in 1.32's. Down stops depending on track, currently 1 mm. Low profile spring retainer.
I think this is fine running 2.2 wheels. Pictures on top and full compression.

For future reference, RPM still sells the long rear hinge pins.

Thanks for the tips. I feel silly, there were already 3 spacers in the shock with the 1.32 shaft. So, 1.02 is the answer...with 3 spacers. It's been a while since I've worked on my RC10s. Yesterday when I was reassembling the rear suspension, I installed the rear suspension mounts upside down.

In what way is this "active suspension"? I associate the term active suspension with early 90s Formula 1 cars (most notably the Williams/Renaults) and the Porsche 959. This looks to be a McPherson strut setup in which the damper is also the upper link.

However, I am old and distinctly remember things that never happened so help me out, please. I'm not saying it isn't active, only that it doesn't fit my (mis)understanding of the term.

There is a watts link sort of deal in front of the trans. There are arms that go from that to the a-arms. Then it's attached to a bar on the topside that the camber rods are attached to.

If using the proper 2038 losi hubs, you can roll the chassis left to right and the rear camber will not change. The tires stay perfectly planted, straight up and down.

Yeah, I think the Watts link is a good description of what it is. I'm using the AE rear hubs as trying to find a set of A2038s for a reasonable price is probably not going to happen.

I had some pictures from when I built mine. Think they illustrate the principle. Setup with the Losi 2038 hubs and 0 degree arm mounts.

I am constantly amazed at the things that turn up on this site! I never knew this existed.

I searched and found Asso_Man built one with a SACS front end a couple of years back:

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=45044

And I thought I was alone with the active front (SACS) and rear (Tekin).... I was wrong I think one could just spot the dim SACS arms above.
Mine was built for the Nordic Vintage Challenge in 2014 on carpet. Great for vintage racing modern tracks these old mid conversion. Also have a Fabiix 2000 for the same purpose.

I built my Tekin chassis back in 2007-08. I tried to get one of the Schumacher kits for the front for the longest time. Ended up selling the car and a kit came up for sale a month later.