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Hi All,
I searched the forum first so if I missed it, please post the link...

I am rebuilding an original RC10 and building a B6 (going for a retro look). I would like to get both anodized in the original Associated gold. Where might I be able to get this done.

There are many ways to approach this from home anodizing to sending to local shops etc, but the name I see come up more than any other for RC anodizing is Batemans Custom Coatings. Lots of feedback on ebay. I do not have personal experience or contact info.

I tried this on my own and have my notes here
A few other people have done this as well.

Finding a place that already works with rc10's is likely going to be best as they will know the color and you can possibly be part of a batch and catch a break on price.

Next would be to find a local place that will work with you. It's going to be helpful if you have an anodized piece that is a reference color for them to work from.

The prep work, stripping and polishing is important in getting a good result.

My current favorite anodizing how to video:
https://youtu.be/ZiclOSG9K-c

Elkcycles wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 11:29 am My current favorite anodizing how to video:
https://youtu.be/ZiclOSG9K-c

A very entertaining video but misleading and inaccurate.

But if inclined to try anodizing several steps are questionable

1. The hydrochloric acid bath ratio is not correct for Caswell 720 LCD method. He is using Caswell's 720 rule.
3 Gals Distilled Water 1 Gal Automotive Battery Acid.
2. Anodizing at a 2mil spec is not within the capabilities or recommendations for type II anodizing, max is 1 mil.
Current density shown is wrong
Thickness shown is wrong
His reference to Caswell's 720 rule shows anodizing at 2mil.
3. The buckets that he uses have no shown agitation.
4. The etching lye rinse is too aggressive.
5. Though boiling water is OK, nickel acetate is a better seal and fairly cheap.
6. Rit dye is very iffy at best, better to use dyes specifically designed for anodizing.

Far better to read and understand Caswell's LCD ANODIZING SYSTEM available on their website.


Chuck

I used Batemans and the service and price was great. The gold color he used is a pretty good match (edit: some of the later darker chassis) but unfortunately he had to strip my chassis from black. Because of this the chassis has a sorta dull color to it instead of a slight sheen. Maybe there is more to prep the chassis to get the factory finish back but I wasn’t too pressed for it to research. I will edit my post with a picture when I get home. Just wanted to comment on the great service and communication I got using his service. That alone goes a long way with me.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 3:24 pm I used Batemans and the service and price was great. The gold color he used is a pretty good match (edit: some of the later darker chassis) but unfortunately he had to strip my chassis from black. Because of this the chassis has a sorta dull color to it instead of a slight sheen. Maybe there is more to prep the chassis to get the factory finish back but I wasn’t too pressed for it to research. I will edit my post with a picture when I get home. Just wanted to comment on the great service and communication I got using his service. That alone goes a long way with me.

I had similar results and worked with the anodizing service to identify the issues. The dullness has nothing to do with the starting color. I sent gold chassis for processing. It has to do with the post stripping polishing step.

When the chassis is stripped the surface is 'fuzzed '. The get the crisp finish the chassis need to be polished, either a process called 'bright dip' or sent to metal polishing before anodizing. How well the metal is polished will effect the color as well as the surface. This seems to be the difference between 'ok' and 'wow' on the final result.

That is true, stripping of color doesn’t matter the origin color. I

Here’s a picture of my chassis vs the ones I have on hand.

Left is the redone chassis, middle unknown year A stamp, right classic.

I feel like I’ve seen some darker gold towards the end of the run of the gold pans. Maybe it was just the black plastic making me think it was darker though. I do think if you spent the time/money polishing the chassis for the brighter sheen, it would look better.

Thanks, everyone. Batemans got back to me and I felt the price was fair.

Based on what I see here, I need to strip the chassis prior to sending it out to be anodized? I was going to sand/glass bead blast it. Is this ok in your opinion(s)?

I thought EasyOff oven cleaner and a scrub pad followed by a water rinse were the best way to remove anodization without damaging the surface finish.

the better it looks before ano, the better it will look after. If the material is dull and shows sanding marks, you will see it in the finished product. I think a glass bead finish would be ok so long as you expect a more flat/dull ano (black for example would look good this way). Stay away from anything that will embed in the aluminum as well (like sand blasting for example- glass should be fine). I prefer to let my local shop safely remove the ano using a soda bath, but Bateman might not have that capability.

Batemans stripped the ano for me so all I did was send him the chassis. He also has an acid etch he could’ve done to make the surface more uniform but he informed me it would make them even more dull.

Here’s an example of what I call good customer service and communication.

WriteDean wrote: ↑Mon Jul 03, 2023 9:28 am Thanks, everyone. Batemans got back to me and I felt the price was fair.

Based on what I see here, I need to strip the chassis prior to sending it out to be anodized? I was going to sand/glass bead blast it. Is this ok in your opinion(s)?

Unless you enjoy tons of metal finish work, do NOT blast them.

It's not something I would do either. I glass beaded a Futaba FXT chassis once, and it ruined it. The PSI was low, and I was using pretty fine media, and it didn't matter. Etched the heck out of the surface. Besides that attempt, I've always used the oven cleaner method as it's a little less aggressive.

I used oven cleaner in the past to remove existing anodizing but this was years ago, I'm not sure if the cleaners are the same as they were back then..

As other's have said, I'd avoid blasting aluminum unless you're going for the blasted look or you're a masochist.