RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Nearing a vintage race I've decided to dust off an old build of mine and let it stretch its legs. I've not posted this car before so even if it is an old and to this forum a fairly plain build, I throw it in here.
At first I could not remember exactly when I built it, but opening the folder with the build pics I see they are dated 2015.

Got the inspiration for this build from a friend of mine normally driving mid motor as per modern style on astro. However, for wet conditions he used to drive B4 with a T4 chassis and a FTW Night Fox XL bodyshell.
I looked at how incredibly stable this looong rear motor car was, tried it and immediately wanted to build something similar vintage.

So, opted for RPM worlds in long wheelbase configuration (10T). Started off as per protocol cutting down the rear end of the chassis for the RPM bits, and some 10T front end parts mated with RPM front parts.

These are some pics from the 2015 folder.

Mounted up the 10T nose plate in forward position along with the 10T #7207 bulkhead.
RPM Worlds front arms #8001, Spindle blocks #7005, Worlds brace tubes #8015, and Worlds front tower.
A&L steering assembly. Shim between chassis and bellcranks is 1.50mm (to get sufficient clearance), and 1mm between steering spindle and ball.

Great looking build

Thanks
Since this is an old build I also know that I grew fond of how it's driving.

There is no harm in stiffening that flimsy upper lip followed by the long configuration nose forward.
So, to further contribute to stiffness in the longitudinal direction, I once again ended up with A&L. In this respect, A&L "aluminum tub chassis stiffener" (A&L #2210) is a brilliant solution.
It addresses bracing exactly where you lose strength with nose plate forward.
The A&L braces also runs exactly over the battery box, so a little shave is needed.

Standard lipo is too high for this setup, but low profile shorty in forward position with an addition of firm foam blocks works very well.

Repro rear tower, with new hole pattern to accommodate the RPM #7034 rear bulkhead.
RPM Worlds rear arms #8017 and 1.5 deg mounts #8021 (set with 1.5 and 3 degrees), narrow chassis rear carriers #8019 and stealth transmission brace #7047.
Fitted an Avid slipper to a stock stealth trans.
Axles are CVA 1/4", AE #6369

Fast forward, and after a couple of years rest, the car got a rebuild this year and is yet again ready for the track. Just some smaller changes to former setup.
Aiming for ride heights 20 mm +/- 2 mm it still sits with 1.02 shocks front and rear.
A rather big change since 2015 is the yellowing of the front tower (see picture above) - it's almost matching the colour of the A&L bellcranks
By the way, the old body was no good, so before it hits the track, I'm going to give it a new Turbo Mirage from Penguin. So yet another update on the thread will follow when the paint is ready.

At last the rebuild got finished for this time and rounded off with a new body and wing.

Went for a dragon theme on Turbo Mirage from Penguin, without any additional geometrical lines.

Fading translucent yellow in front to orange at the rear end.

Dragon painted in blue on the inside of the yellow to get the desired green.

Backing in bright silver for an even metallic effect across the two colours. Finally sealed off with grey.

So now the dust has settled after the last Nordic Vintage Challenge, and the car returned safely home without broken legs or other injuries.
It is crazy stable, but as expected a bit sluggish on a tight carpet track. My mid motor Tekin would probably have been a better choice https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=552779#p552779. Fast outside tracks are the right elements for this car.
Anyway, the goal of the rebuild was to get the RPM '91 Worlds rolling and take it for a spin.
It was a very nice gathering with good people and buckets of fun!
Here you can see some of the attending vintage heads, and very fine collection of vehicles

Lots of vintage rc goodies on four wheels