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Hi
I have never driven an RC car before but I found this car on a rubbish bin outside the local fish and chip shop. It is missing the transmitter but the car is in good condition.

I want to restore it and I am looking for advice. The aim is to keep it period correct.

The only planned concession to "modernity" is a new esc to replace the stepped resistor speed controller. I will keep the stepped speed controller if someone wants to fit it later.

I have been offered a esc ko CX-IIR at a stupid price. I understand these devices are fragile and unreliable. If I can find a reasonably priced one, I will buy it. I suspect the key components of the CX-IIR can be upgraded/replaced without affecting the external appearance. Has anyone done this?

I have found a Futaba 27MHz AM 2ch T2PHKA to install/use. That is period correct.

One of the shocks was dry so I filled that and it is not (yet) leaking.

The plastic and sintered metal bearings are sloppy. Is it worth fitting ball bearings? If so, which bearings are priority to replace. I am thinking the ones in the hubs are prime candidates.

Dazz

Bearings are cheap, replace everything. I've only needed two bearing sizes for every Tamiya that I own.

If the shock diaphragms are in good shape, the o rings are common "006" size. Silicone is better.

Be careful with older KO electronics. They used a different wiring layout at the receiver.

Per Fast Eddy:

Tamiya TA03 Series Sealed Bearing Kit
(2) 5x8x2.5
(4) 6x12x4
(2) 3x7x3
(8) 5x11x4
(4) 10x15x4

I usually go to www.avidrc.com or Amazon for bearings. If it is just going to be a parking lot runner, I usually just get the cheapest sealed bearings I see (with decent reviews).

Good luck with the restore! Plenty of parts out there for the TA03.

There is a couple of strong rc car clubs with a few kilometers. The closest has a high quality sealed track. I have decided I will only run the car solo on the track. I will look at buying a car to race, if SWMBO approves.

The shock diaphragms are good. No sign of any leakage since I filled the empty shock.

I will investigate local availability/price of ball bearing kits.

I'd like to find a vintage Futaba mc330cr esc but I see nothing advertised. There are probably lots of them languishing in small collections of old gear somewhere.

Bearings are worth every penny. Get them. As for an esc, I've heard good things about novak, but have never personally run one. The prices on them are often pretty steep too, since some are kinda collectable nowadays. I run hobbywing 1060 escs in most of my cars. They're not period correct at all, but they're cheap and never let me down.

Hi
On close inspection, the chassis is designed for anti-roll bars but they don't look like they have ever been fitted.
I could make some but I can't find details of fastenings.
Should they be fitted?

Hi
All the steering ball joints need replacing.
Should I replace them with genuine Tamiya parts and keep the car factory?
or
would it be OK to replace the plastic ones with metal after market versions?

ZED32 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:27 pm Bearings are worth every penny. Get them. As for an esc, I've heard good things about novak, but have never personally run one. The prices on them are often pretty steep too, since some are kinda collectable nowadays. I run hobbywing 1060 escs in most of my cars. They're not period correct at all, but they're cheap and never let me down.

I have ordered a modern esc just to get the car running. I will keep the servo/switched resistor speed control in storage.
I will keep a look out for a reasonably priced vintage esc.

dazz wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 4:40 pm Hi
All the steering ball joints need replacing.
Should I replace them with genuine Tamiya parts and keep the car factory?
or
would it be OK to replace the plastic ones with metal after market versions?

I dont see any issue with upgrading parts, especially if it's going to be a runner. When it comes to metal parts though, there are sometimes drawbacks. Like, in crashes, strong metal suspension parts can transmit all that force in your plastic chassis and break it, especially on brittle old cars like this. Steering joints should be fine though.

Hi
I am not going to race this car, so no point in upgrading stuff. I am only looking at replacing worn parts, like ball joints. It is cheaper for me to upgrade to ball bearings and metal ball joints than to buy genuine plastic Tamiya parts.

I'd say it's fine to get metal ball joints. I cant see that being an issue.

I commonly use 4.8mm ball cups in place of the 5mm Tamiya ones. The Tamiya ball is on the smaller size, so the slightly smaller cups work well.

Hi
I have added a modern esc but kept all of the bits from the old manual speed controller.
The new esc has an undocumented bec which has allowed me to simplify the wiring.
I made a deck over the battery compartment for the receiver to attach to.

The period correct Futaba draws 230mA from the batteries.

Hi
I have added a modern esc but kept all of the bits from the old manual speed controller.
The new esc has an undocumented bec which has allowed me to simplify the wiring.
I made a deck over the battery compartment for the receiver to attach to.

The period correct Futaba draws 230mA from the batteries.