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Wasn't sure if this was better suited for the RC10T section or the Rerelease buggy section.

Here is a live build video I made yesterday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VV12mj25PzY

And here are the key takeaways/surprises from the build:
1. The Moto-Obscura bleeder shock caps do fit these re-release shocks very well. (https://www.moto-obscura.com/products/aluminum-bleeder-screw-caps-for-associated-narrow-bore-shock-absorbers)
2. Aluminum top shaft (!) with original stealth slipper, not B4 style.
3. Idler bearings set into transmission case, not in the gear.
4. Color of plastics looks good. It’s clear they put a lot of effort into replicating the colors and it looks a lot better than the 40th anniversary edition in my opinion.
5. The screw holes on the 3-piece wheels are surprisingly easy to strip. Do not over tighten.
6. The nose tube rubs on the servo saver adjustment knob, on my kit at least. Not a problem if you plan to replace the bellcranks with T2/GT/worlds style bellcranks, which is probably the way to go anyway.
7. The bottom chassis screws are black oxide coated steel and have a hex head rather than the typical gold aluminum screws with Phillips heads. A 2.5mm driver fits well in the new screws.

Nice job on the video! Thanks for sharing the build process.

- limestang

MotoObscura wrote: ↑Thu Jul 04, 2024 12:07 pm And here are the key takeaways/surprises from the build:

3. Idler bearings set into transmission case, not in the gear.

5. The screw holes on the 3-piece wheels are surprisingly easy to strip. Do not over tighten.

6. The nose tube rubs on the servo saver adjustment knob, on my kit at least.

7. The bottom chassis screws are black oxide coated steel and have a hex head rather than the typical gold aluminum screws with Phillips heads. A 2.5mm driver fits well in the new screws.

3- Not surprising. This was a problem area for the re-re Words car. The original ones (like this) worked better.

5- This was a problem on the original wheels as well. If you do strip one, an appropriate length M3 screw can be substituted.

6- Also a problem on the originals. All of my original nose tubes have scuff marks here.

7- I think this follows the CC and 40th. I know that the green aluminum screws on the re-re's were also a problem.

Did some testing and tuning the other day at World of RC with the RC10T Classic. I didn’t break any “real” parts, only two of the stock ballcups. Honestly if you’re going to run this truck it isn’t even worth it to take the stock ball cups out of the bag. They’re brittle, grip the turnbuckle far too tightly, and pop off the ball if you look at them funny. I’ll be throwing a set of RPM ballcups on for next time.

I bent some 1mm lexan into a 1” tall wing, which made a big difference in the way the car drove and jumped. The body started to crack just past the shock tower humps however, probably made worse by the added weight of the wing (the wing definitely didn't need to be that thick). I recommend reinforcing that area.

Here is the setup I arrived at. Down here we have very high bite and moist Carolina clay, the grip starts high and comes up even more as the day goes on. For this surface, 1.5 degree toe rear arm pivots provide a very nice amount of early rotation. If the surface tends to get dry or dusty I would use the 3 degree rear arm pivots to make the car more predictable at corner entry.

And here are a few photos of how the car fared after a hundred laps or so:

Thank you for sharing the setup sheet and pics. It's very nice to see runners to remind myself these are great race rigs. Time to build!!!