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So yeah..
Haven’t done much building the past six or seven months.
Thought I kick off this November with a rere Jay Halsey replica build.

Trying to get all the cuts right. Not sure how much Jay trimmed the back of the chassis. The same goes for the front sides of the chassis. Might be that Jay did a more aggressive transition towards the sides.
It’s not every build that you start by applying decals, but that was to get the sides somewhat accurate.

Chassis cut and ready.

If associated had done this from factory I would have bought it for sure otherwise it’s just a rc 10 classic with different wheels and a sticker set

sandkil wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 12:09 pm Chassis cut and ready.

That came out really nice! Did you use a dremel or something else?

Hey very nice work! I will send my chassis to you right away...

treystoys wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 10:28 pm

sandkil wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 12:09 pm Chassis cut and ready.

That came out really nice! Did you use a dremel or something else?

Thank you. I used a jigsaw, dremel, fine metal files and 800 grit wet sanding.
The metal in these rere chassis is much softer than to old ones.

some detailed pics.
In my opinion!... The metal work is half the fun of building an RC10. If you have built a six gear and a stealth you have built them all.

First building steps done

Done som assembly on the rear end.
Drilled extra holes in the rear shock tower and fitted four 4-40 3/4 screws along with nuts.
Drilled a hole in the outer diff hub to mimic what I think was Bud’s hub that Jay used. Mounted the antenna mount on the bulkhead with a long 4-40 screw in the sway bar mount position. Cut down the rear body post. For now I used two washers underneath, but will swap them out for a 8-32 nut once I find them.

Pinned diff, nice!

In the early days, they were just drilling and tapping the RC10 hubs, but used the notched diff rings from Bud's. Page 6/12 explains this.

MIP

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49515&hilit=MIP

Okay I’m just guessing and I know he used his RC10 well after winning the 1985 IFMAR, but looking at Jay’s car it looks like he was driving 15 deg caster blocks. I had a pair 6213 so I slammed them on. Upper inner link position differs from manual compared to old pics so I had to shorten the turnbuckles a bit.
The new ball cups are hard!!! I used a 4-40 tap on the ball cups otherwise the cups turns white when trying to screw them onto the turnbuckles. Last thought is that I think Jay originally used metric turnbuckles bird. Threads looks so fine compared to 4-40, but that’s only me..

RC10resto wrote: ↑Tue Dec 03, 2024 12:03 am MIP

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49515&hilit=MIP

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Dec 02, 2024 3:14 pm Pinned diff, nice!

In the early days, they were just drilling and tapping the RC10 hubs, but used the notched diff rings from Bud's. Page 6/12 explains this.

I just got this from the man himself..

Those diff rings are hardened steel, I didn't have any luck trying to drill out the Bud's 2110 ring.






In the end I used these instead, to lock the diff.

Hardened stuff generally should be ground or filed instead of drilled. Just gotta be careful not to overheat it as you risk warping them. The jammin jay kit is perfect though!