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I have a Oldschool T2. Snapped my left front A arm. Replaced it. Lasted me 20 mins and well. Back to looking for a replacement.

My question is. What later yr truck arms are compatible? Any of them? Even if I have to shave or shim the arm alittle. Which ones will line up and give me some reliability I need?

I’m highly considering going all aluminum with the bulk head and arms. Since the cost of replacing them is costing me more than the initial purchase of the aluminum upgrades. Plz n thanks.

Oh also. Is there a slip clutch eliminator option like traxxas has for their cars?

The current RC10T re release parts such as all the arms, castor blocks, bulkhead (not rear bulkhead though) and other parts will fit the RC10 T2 with no problems, they are all dimensionality identical, just different looks.

Customworks B2 slipper eliminator works for that truck. The two screw version not the 3 screw for the 5.5 mm topshaft

Your parts failures may continue inside the transmission however if your just kind of bashing with the eliminator

The T2 arms are pretty robust, I'd say they were the strongest in the line-up.

If you have an aluminum bulkhead and aluminum arms chances are if you bend a hinge pin you won't be able to get them apart.

Another option would be to find a set of RPM arms which are made of a more flexible material to resist breaking. Otherwise I would just persist with the stock parts or re-re/FanRC parts if you keep breaking them.

Ranivorous wrote: ↑Thu Dec 19, 2024 4:37 am I have a Oldschool T2. Snapped my left front A arm. Replaced it. Lasted me 20 mins and well. Back to looking for a replacement.

My question is. What later yr truck arms are compatible? Any of them? Even if I have to shave or shim the arm alittle. Which ones will line up and give me some reliability I need?

I’m highly considering going all aluminum with the bulk head and arms. Since the cost of replacing them is costing me more than the initial purchase of the aluminum upgrades. Plz n thanks.

Oh also. Is there a slip clutch eliminator option like traxxas has for their cars?

Why use the slipper eliminator? Sounds like you are going bashing and the weight of a slipper shouldn't be an issue.
You can upgrade to the b4/DR10 slipper with a new top shaft if you want to handle more power.

The arms are pretty sturdy, but parts will break, The rec10 reissue arms may be a bit softer than the t2 original arms and soak up damage without breaking. Could be good to try.

aluminum arms are not good... if youre breaking stock arms you will bend an aluminum one as well as break something else instead of the plastic arm taking all the damage.

i have never broken a rpm arm. and if you boil them it will make them even more resilient at the expense of a little stiffness.

If you are just bashing, Traxxas Slash/Rustler/Stampede front arms can be modified to fit, with just a 1/8" drill bit.

Just open the outer hinge pin up to 1/8". Regular Traxxas arms are $8 a set (or free from a friend) and Traxxas HD and RPM arms are $11 a set.

The Traxxas arms are about 1/8" shorter than 10T/T2 arms, so you'll need to adjust the turnbuckles.

The aluminum front brace won't fit between the bulkhead and arms but the hinge pins might be long enough to put it on the outside (Traxxas makes some that length).

Or you could opt to convert the front to hex with Traxxas caster blocks and carriers. However, this is narrower by a couple more millimeters on each side. With both, some front offset Traxxas wheels would probably be about right, depending on the hex thickness.