RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

As the title suggests, I am planning on running my hybrid RC10 and want to keep that gorgeous gold chassis as clean as possible. I also rather like the idea of being able to fix the body using velcro on the tray instead of punching holes in it.

I am in the UK and don't get to see all the cool stuff for the RC10 so hoping some of you experienced RCers can recommend your preferred underguard.

I'm a fan of paint protection film. (automotive type, I didn't spring for the fancy 3M stuff)
It fits all brands of RC's, easily replaced, inexpensive, and see-thru clear so you can see the chassis color.

I know TBG sells a lexan undertray to fit the 10/10T chassis; I'm sure other lexan vendors do also.

vonmarshalll wrote: ↑Fri May 02, 2025 4:04 pm As the title suggests, I am planning on running my hybrid RC10 and want to keep that gorgeous gold chassis as clean as possible. I also rather like the idea of being able to fix the body using velcro on the tray instead of punching holes in it.

I am in the UK and don't get to see all the cool stuff for the RC10 so hoping some of you experienced RCers can recommend your preferred underguard.

If you are only planning on occasionally hitting the ground an Automotive paint protection film like XPEL Ultimate will be ok
If you are running on pavement or hard a rigid shell is your best bet as you need something to sacrifice.

Ultimately cars that are run often,hard and on hard surfaces will get scratched. Having an extra chassis is your best option.

a.e. used to sell really nice adhesive protector sheet. it was real thick and slid well over stuff, cant get it anymore but im sure if you ask around somebody would know the source material.

I've never tried either before but if I had to choose, I'd likely go with the stick on type. I've read that the Lexan protectors just trap dirt/sand between them and the chassis?

Dude, gotta snag yourself a righteous set of rails if you're gonna be grindin' hardcore.



Jokes aside... Clear protective film, dots over the unused holes in the topside of the chassis and doubled up at the nose plate and tail as sacrificial pieces in those high wear areas will provide about the best protection. But that doesn't stop your arms/mounts from getting shredded since anything that happens to the chassis, will happen to them as well.

I agree with JosephS, buy a spare chassis, noseplate, arms, mounts, drive your buggy with fun an abandon then swap the parts over when the time comes that you're no longer driving it... I've done that with a few of my cars 'cause it's no fun to remove all your protective measures just to find out they didn't work.

Lowgear wrote: ↑Sun May 04, 2025 12:30 am I've never tried either before but if I had to choose, I'd likely go with the stick on type. I've read that the Lexan protectors just trap dirt/sand between them and the chassis?

Yeah kinda like spray-on bedliners vs. the OG plastic insert style bedliners. The plastic insert style was just covering all the vibration paint loss and rust. I think undertrays are cool for shelfers but the adhesive films are better for racing. "Bashing" is another world. Anybody tried Plasti-dipping? I guess you can cut it/thin it out and spray it on?

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Sun May 04, 2025 3:36 am Anybody tried Plasti-dipping? I guess you can cut it/thin it out and spray it on?

Plasti-dip can be bought in spray cans. I've used it, really soft, tears easily, and a single can builds a film about as thick as a can of spray paint so it takes several cans (at $9/can) to get enough thickness.

Could mask and brush paint the regular canned Plasti-dip on, never tried that... but either way tape over the screw heads first otherwise you'll never get a screwdriver back in them.

A new chassis when yours gets scratched up. They killed the market value of all the tubs, so just put a brand new one on and don't sweat it!