RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I have a Kyosho Optima runner, which I enjoy as it was the car I had as a teen. However, like then - I am constantly maintaining it. The chain gets loose, dogbone pops, etc. I suspect maintenance is needed more with 4wds (at least that is what I have always heard) - but is this true??Specifically, would an RC-10 be a little easier to keep running (this is not bashing)? I could go the entry-level Tamiya route , but I have always liked the original gold pan RC-10.

In my honest opinion, RC10s are like the Toyotas of R/C, they just keep going and going, they're very tough and reliable, I would recommend to disassemble the transmission every once in a while to clean and regrease, but other than that, they are great racers that you can bash with, without worrying too much about breaking it.

I've had a B3, two T3, two T2, and now a vintage RC10T, and so far, I haven't been dissapointed oh, and I've bashed them all, and used all kinds of motors on them, ranging from stock to 5.5 velocity brushless.

Kyosho Optimas can be very fussy. One way to get around the chain problem is to upgrade to the belt conversion...if you can find one. Thread lock is a must with these cars as many machine screws thread into metal.

RC10s are easier to run. Probably because they're only 2wd. They will bend/break if hammered into a wall though.

IMHO, and IME, while maintenance does improve the longevity and runability of a rig, the more important thing is the rig itself. I've got two clods that I've seriously abused and neglected and they still run strong and great. As evidenced from my recent questions about wire size and soldering irons, I was working on a truck that hadn't really seen any maintenance in two years, even after being run through water and mud two years ago. Over the past few days I've completely torn down that truck and cleaned/reworked it. With the exception of a few bearings, everything was in tip top shape. A little cleaning and a little lube and all is well in the world of Clods. On the other hand, I've got a T-Maxx that was utter garbage out of the box, was a PITA during it's "useful" life, and now sits in a heap, waiting for me to clean it up and put it on the auction block. IMHO, the T-Maxx always was and always will be a POS that requires considerable upgrades and regular maintenance to even be considered runable.

The point is, a good rig is a good rig, maintenance or otherwise. A POS is a POS, no matter how much money, time, and effort you throw at it. Start with a good base and you'll have a rig you'll enjoy owning and running.

tecnica2001 wrote:In my honest opinion, RC10s are like the Toyotas of R/C, they just keep going and going, they're very tough and reliable, I would recommend to disassemble the transmission every once in a while to clean and regrease, but other than that, they are great racers that you can bash with, without worrying too much about breaking it.

I've had a B3, two T3, two T2, and now a vintage RC10T, and so far, I haven't been dissapointed oh, and I've bashed them all, and used all kinds of motors on them, ranging from stock to 5.5 velocity brushless.

I can whole heartedly agree with that, 18 years of rc10's and my rc10 graphite has only had one of its steering arms replaced

all my rc10s have been thrashed and abused but loved over the years

Edwin

tecnica2001 wrote:In my honest opinion, RC10s are like the Toyotas of R/C

you should be banned for such a statement.

Thanks for the great comments/help. I agree that the Optima is "fussy." Don't get me wrong, it is reliable, but it takes a lot of adjusting. I remember when my friend had his Tamiya Fox and I had my Optima. I could almost always beat him running-bashing around, but I was also usually fixing-adjusting stuff afterward. Everything that I have heard about the RC-10 (even back in the 80s) has been that it is reliable and pretty much a great car out of the box (just make sure to add bearings).

The front arms on my runner are sloppy. I suspect that the holes in the mounts are worn despite the fact that the hinge pins are straight and polished. I would replace the mounts but new white pieces won't match the wonderful "patina" that the rest of the car has acquired. Is there a good fix?

arf wrote:The front arms on my runner are sloppy. I suspect that the holes in the mounts are worn despite the fact that the hinge pins are straight and polished. I would replace the mounts but new white pieces won't match the wonderful "patina" that the rest of the car has acquired. Is there a good fix?

you could try getting some 1/8" slot car axle shims. they're very thin. but, that's only gonna do so much. i doubt it'll eliminate the slop, but it should help a little bit. if the car's just a runner/beater, i wouldn't even worry about it. unless your planning some serious racing with it.

Another question. I run the car on rough dusty asphalt and the old stock motor and esc are toast. Will the six gear tranny survive brushless power? I have an older Novak 5800 (8.5 turn).

i don't have brushless stuff, so i don't know the kind of power an 8.5 puts out. but, it probably wouldn't hurt to stock up on idler gears.