V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

General info, Q&A.

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aconsola
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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by aconsola »

CAR: JRX-T
RADIO: Futaba 3pj-super with spektrum module
RECEIVER: Losi DSM with spektrum voltage protector(capacitor)
SERVO: hitec hs625mg
ESC: Tekin ESC 610
MOTOR: Trinity Cobalt 27T
BATTERIES: Energ 4600's:Promatch & team scream 3300's
TRANS: Losi LRM, Stock
GEARS: profiled blue 92t spur 14T pinion
SHOCKS: losi bodies, mip gold shafts, mip blue aluminum cartriges 30 weight oil, RPM 2-stage pistons(blue I think)
SPRINGS:Red front, progressive black rear
TIRES:Proline edge front, jconcepts double-dees rear
WHEELS: AE rc10GT stock front dish wheels, Vintage proline JRX-t rear dish wheels.
BODY: Stock JRX-T
MODS: transponder mounted to dirt shield. Extra-long Proline front axles(meant for their monster truck conversion rims) to allow modern offset wheels to fit with inboard spacers.
UPGRADES: All rpm parts except for rear hub carriers(stock losi parts used to allow for wider selection of wheels), litespeed motor plate, rcps turnbuckles, aluminum esc plate, and Pure-tech battery strap.
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Many, many crashes/flips and I didn't break a single one of the thin shock clamps. :)

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Brandon G
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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by Brandon G »

Love the body on that truck. Too many people mount the things too far forward, but you got yours just right.... 8)

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Mr. ED
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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by Mr. ED »

mrlexan wrote:Brandon should also be commended on the paint work on that re-re Frog. It looks great! Nicely done.
Both the losi and tami are excellent paint jobs and well designed schemes. Love it!

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Brandon G
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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by Brandon G »

Thanks for all the kind words on the paintwork guys. I have to say I put it off until pretty much the last week leading up to the race. Lazy I guess.

There have been a few people asking about what parts I used on the Frog, so I figured I'd post all I had info wise.

Frog info:
Front wheels: Tamiya P/N 51261 (sand viper)
Rear wheels: Tamiya P/N 51262 (sand viper)
Rear hex adapter: Tamiya P/N 53913 (works on the hornet/grasshopper/wildone too.)
Tamiya CVD rear axles
Front shocks: Yeah Racing 60mm length
Rear shocks: Yeah Racing 80mm length
CRP front shock tower
CRP front shock tower hardware (sold seperately :roll: )
Kimbrough servo saver, ditch the stock piece.
75mm eye to eye is perfect for the rear of the frog. The 80mm require spacers to limit travel. I got the shocks from RC Mushroom, but I don't think they have then anymore. Reason I went with them is because I liked the color, and the fasteners/spacers were metric. You can adapt just about any shock to work on this car, and most of the 4-40 hardware that is used for the american stuff will work fine in the plastics that they bolt to. Front suspension requires the absolute softest spring with 20wt oil to be effective. I used the black associated springs, and I think they were too stiff. The browns are softer, but 1/4" longer than the other "short" associated springs.

I really had no idea what to expect with the Frog on the track. I must say, I was really surprised! It jumped well and had plenty of speed! Too much really for that chassis.... I think other than what I did to it I would fashion some kind of rear swaybar. It would help with that type rear suspension. I would go with the "torque" setting as far as gear ratios go, if you are buying a re-re. They actually include 3 sets of gears/pinions to swap around. The diff was left stock. I don't think it would be a problem unless running the Blackfoot class. They wont hold up with the bigger tires. Save the money as far as buying a ball diff (unless you come across one CHEAP of course) and just coat the gears with a really heavy silicone grease. Nissan has some they use on the window regulators of real cars to quiet them down. Usually you can hop into a dealer and get a small bit if they have a tub of it already open. This works on the Slash as well. (hint, hint)

Lipo batteries require some spacers put between the side holders and the chassis in order to widen the area. I was using the Orion packs by the way. It would need to be done with the Sub C side by side packs too.

Hope this helps get a few more into the classic class for next year!

I am planning on running a Wild One next time. All I need to do now is find one. Affordably. :roll:

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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by tecnica2001 »

That's awesome info bro, I would've gone with a Frog Beetle Hybrid, but I held back because of the differential issues associated with the Frogs/Wild Ones/Blackfoot, but you proved everyone wrong, and that car was quick and nimble, you could've raced in the 2wd class :mrgreen:

Imma keep my eyes open to see if I can find something to run in the classics class :wink:

I would love to get my hands on a Tamiya Bear Hawk, that's classic class legal? right?? :D
Life is like a box of chocolate, you never know what R/C car you're gonna get next!!!

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Group B
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Re: V-Nats Tech Thread....... show your stuff, rc10 or not

Post by Group B »

I think thats awesome that you ran a frog, bngiles, an original frog was my first r/c car!

It was a Price Club/Costco Special, which came with an awful two-stick futaba radio.

I can't believe a company sold shock towers for retrofitting real shocks up front, that really transforms the car.

That and anything other than those terrible stock axles with the hex joints that would wear-out!
Associated: RC10T - "Baller Truck" ~ Red Bull SC10 - "Sucker Free" ~ RC10T - "Teh Shelfer"
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