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Tried to look for some info and couldn't find what i wanted.

So I have a couple or the orig. Stealth trans. and wondered if anyone has tried swapping in the new stealth from a B4? I picked up a roller cheap, and already adapted parts to my vintage racer, but I haven't tried switching the trans gears out yet. I haven't taken either apart yet, but just wondered if anyone has done any measuring to see if it works.


MOmo

i haven't seen anyone put a complete b4 trans in an old rc10. but, you can pull the complete topshaft/slipper/spur setup out of it and put it in a 2.25 stealth.

By changing out the top shaft is the gear ratio changed at all? Does the B4 slipper make a big difference over the original slipper?

matteo wrote:By changing out the top shaft is the gear ratio changed at all? Does the B4 slipper make a big difference over the original slipper?

if it would change the gear ratio, that would simply mean that the B4 top shaft doesn't fit and it actually does and yes the B4 slipper unit is WAY better than the old Stealth one, especially because the pads are captured into the spur gear, avoiding them to distort with hot motors! You will just need to use a RPM gear cover or take off the gear cover cap from an original one because the top shaft is a bit longer that the original.

Thanks for info. Not to change the subject, but what are peoples thoughts on putting the hydra-drive on the old stealth. What are the benefits of it...my lhs has one still and wanted to know if its something I should acquire. Thanks.

matteo wrote:Thanks for info. Not to change the subject, but what are peoples thoughts on putting the hydra-drive on the old stealth. What are the benefits of it...my lhs has one still and wanted to know if its something I should acquire. Thanks.

from what i think i remember reading, the hydra setup was better suited to loose track conditions. so if it's something your looking to use,the place you'd be racing at my be your deciding factor to get it or not. but, they do add more rotating mass than a slipper setup. also, if it's just the hydra setup, and not the complete kit for the stealth, you'll have to find the correct topshaft to use on a 2.25. and those are kinda hard to find, and pricey when you do.

One last question. My local track is hard packed clay surface. Should I look to change to the b4 top shaft/slipper set up or stick with the stock setup. I have not raced competively since 1990/1991 and I don't remember ever having any problems running a stealth with a low wind motor. What were guys doing at the vintage nationls? Any info is greatly appreciated.

i would just get a complete b4 topshaft setup (topshaft, slipper, spur, related hardware). if it's a car your gonna be running, might as well use all readily available parts.

i saw a lot of b4 slipper setups at the v-nats. i had a b3/t3 setup on mine.

i ran a b4 slipper on my truck at the nats.

by only complaint is you lose your slipper adjustment each and every-time you swap a spur, and if you are crunched for time right before you are up to race thats a huge pain in the you know what.

(yay! i'm talking from experience!)

badhoopty wrote:(yay! i'm talking from experience!)

Didn't Alex at INET use the new aluminum stealth trans in some of his older associated models?

murphy3428 wrote:Didn't Alex at INET use the new aluminum stealth trans in some of his older associated models?

Yep, with the help of a custom adapter and rear bulkhead.

I wish there was a way to adapt a newer design slipper to an original gt trans, only problem is the gt2 spurs don't come in the right size oh well. I have to run my slipper locked down, anything less and it slips like crazy

markt311 wrote:I wish there was a way to adapt a newer design slipper to an original gt trans, only problem is the gt2 spurs don't come in the right size oh well. I have to run my slipper locked down, anything less and it slips like crazy

Have you tried replacing your slipper torque control spring or disc?

I've just done the B4/T4 top shaft and slipper mod, but I wanted to quiz everyone to see if I left anything out. All I did was install the new shaft, then the slipper hub - clutch disc - spur - clutch disc - slipper hub - spring - nut. The way mine sits, the inboard slipper hub just bottoms out at the end of the "flats" machined on the shaft. Is this the way everyone else is running it, or is there something like a spacer that keeps the inner slipper hub spaced out at a certain distance from the motor plate/tranny?