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i have an rc10 ce and id like to know what rims and tires are still sold that will fit it.i want to stay off road with it

there's nothing available anymore that is direct fit. but there are ways to go about it to run the newer 2.2 tires. for the front, you can find b2/b3 rims, or use duratrax evader front rims. bearing size would be 3/16 x 3/8 plain. the b2/b3 rims are disco'd, but you might be able to find some. here's the duratrax rims (they come in a couple different colors).

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT5&P=SM

for the rear, there's a couple ways to go about it. you could use the crt.5 rims with the hpi adapters for the 1/4" axles.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSEF3&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=SM

or, you can get a set of b2 mip cvd's and swap your rear bearings to 3/16 x 3/8 flanged. then, you'll be able to use b2/b3 rear rims, or duratrax nitro evader rear rims (they come in the same colors as the fronts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP3&P=SM

with all that being said, from what i read in another thread your car is like mint. i wouldn't even use it. but that's just me.

If you are able to use the same wheels you have, you can still get Traxxas tires that fit the bill. These are the tires I use for my cars:

p/n 4750 are 2.0 rear spiked tires
p/n 1771 are 2.1 front spiked tires

scr8p wrote: for the rear, there's a couple ways to go about it.
you can get a set of b2 mip cvd's and swap your rear bearings to 3/16 x 3/8 flanged. then, you'll be able to use b2/b3 rear rims, or duratrax nitro evader rear rims (they come in the same colors as the fronts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP3&P=SM

Hey scr8p if you wanted to stay with the original dog bone set up , do you think this B4 RTR 3/16'' dog bone axle would work with the 3/16 X 3/8 bearing swap ?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEJ8&P=OW

they should work. i don't have any to try and confirm it, though. i don't know if there'd be any issues with not having the spring in the stub axle pushing the dogbone into the trans outdrive.

scr8p wrote:they should work. i don't have any to try and confirm it, though. i don't know if there'd be any issues with not having the spring in the stub axle pushing the dogbone into the trans outdrive.

I would think you could still use a spring, I'm trying to go to AEs web site to see the B4 RTR manual, and see if it uses the same dog bone as the original, but I can't seem to get on the site.

b4 dogbones are longer than the originals.

another thing, you might want to use the stub axles for the b2/b3/t3. that way, you won't have to buy the b4 wheel spacers, too. unless you want a wider track width.

scr8p wrote:b4 dogbones are longer than the originals.

another thing, you might want to use the stub axles for the b2/b3/t3. that way, you won't have to buy the b4 wheel spacers, too. unless you want a wider track width.

Tower shows the B2/B3 stub axle #6374 the same 1/4'' axle as the origanal.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2562&P=OW

Is that the one your talking about ? or do they make a 3/16'' ?

these are the standard 3/16 stub axles:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCCZ6&P=SM

The B4 axles works perfect without the spring in it. Instead, the axles need a red silicon o-ring in it. As the O-ring is soft, it adds as a cushion and dog bones will not falls out from the outdrive. You need the 3/16 x 3/8 bearing in ear carriers and the alum wheel spacer which provide another 1-2mm offset. My gold tub runner is done this way and run well without any dislocated dog bones. HTH.

Do the evader rear wheels narrow the car at all?

Rod Rippee wrote:Do the evader rear wheels narrow the car at all?

the evader bx rear wheels.... yes. they're more like the b4 rims with a lot of neg. offset. the nitro evader rears are comparable to the b2/b3 rears, which makes it a good wheel to use on the old rc10's so you can use the modern 2.2 tires. they are less durable, though. more of a plastic than nylon.

So, the car will be narrower with the evader wheels than it would be with b2 wheels?

Rod Rippee wrote:So, the car will be narrower with the evader wheels than it would be with b2 wheels?

the nitro evader rear rims are the same as a b2/b3 rear rims. those would be the ones you'd want for an older rc10. it'll keep the car at the stock track width.

Yeah I meant nitro evader. Is there a big problem with breakage? I am not going to run my team car much, I would just like to run it in the mod class a couple times this winter to see how far the cars have come, you know? We do not have a vintage class at my track yet and with 80-90 entries per night, there really isn't enough time to add a class of racing, especially a class that would be limited.

Thanks again for the help.