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I bought the lot shown in the picture a while back from Ed (Dr. Robotnik) and was all ready to begin a rebuild--new build with these parts and parts I already have but I realized this wasn't what I thought it was...So...can Ed or anyone please tell me exactly what this conversion is meant to include....and what benefit the racer stood to gain from doing the conversion???? Any scans, articles etc on this conversion that I can refer to? What other 91 hop ups would go well with this?

Here is what I do have:
New condition:
RPM bumper black
RPM spring cups
RPM shock balls
RPM bell crank centre connector

Associated white rear bulkhead
Associated shocks

Used
RPM bumper white
RPM spring pre-load kit
RPM worlds '91 front arms
RPM worlds '91 front shock tower
RPM worlds '91 front nose tubes
RPM worlds '91 rear arm hinge mounts
RPM worlds '91 rear chassis cutting template

Associated RC10T front bulkhead
Associated RC10T black nose plate
Associated tranny brace 6 gear/stealth

Is it just a matter of replacing the parts on a "stock" gold tub with these parts??? What exactly is the cutting template needed for? What are the truck parts for?

I saw the thread about usable replacement rear arms being available from http://www.dynotech-racing.com. (See this thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3266&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=dynotech&start=0) but of course would prefer to obtain the proper RPM original rears...who has them???

Thanks very much, eager to get started on this one....

Ron

Ron,

The only thing I see missing are the rear arms (the Dynotech ones would be fine) and the RPM rear bulkhead (maybe you can modify the stock one?). The cutting template is for narrowing the rear of the chassis where the arms mount. The RPM ones are a bit longer than stock and the chassis must be cut to keep the overall width of the car "legal". You'll use the truck parts instead of the stock ones.

There are a few builds on here that show exactly how the conversion goes.

Brian

this article will give you the idea behind the reason for using the longer arms. this car is the reason rpm even had a worlds kit..... http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1002

the only items that i see your missing is the rpm worlds rear arms (you can use the dynotech klein replacement rear arms too), and the rpm worlds rear hub carriers. but for those, you could you the rpm rear carrier kit for the rc10gt, or the a-2038 losi hubs. both will give you the same thing (lower hinge pin hole).

the template is for cutting the rear of the tub. it needs to be done if you want to use the normal rc10 wheels because the worlds arms are longer. if you don't modify the chassis, the dogbones will be too short and the car will be too wide.

the truck parts (noseplate and bulkhead) are needed too narrow the front end because the worlds arms are longer.

and i already saw that brian beat me to a reply.

When I ran this set up back when it came out. I used the green powder coated chassis. The car was sweet. I did find a way to bend 2 shock shafts. It could had been the angle of the shock and the length of the arm. The shafts would bend if you landed on the side of the wheel from a jump.

Will the losi hubs allow you to put b4 wheels on. Would the car be legal width if the chassis wasn't cut with the use of b4 wheels?

matteo wrote:Will the losi hubs allow you to put b4 wheels on. Would the car be legal width if the chassis wasn't cut with the use of b4 wheels?

read through this thread. tons of info. my car in this thread will also answer your front axle question in the tech section, too............

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483

You better check THIS out. I ordered a pair myself. together with the dynotech rear wheels you're set.