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I finally got ahold of a mip transmission for the losi cars. The case is a bit more of a snot green than a nice yellow, but it will do for now.
I got it rebuilt and tried to install it. The instructions specifically say to use the stock screw in the lower part of the motor plate through the chassis to bolt the plate down, but the motor plate is about 1/8" off the chassis. At first I thought that maybe the used motor plate was a little bent up, but that is unlikely as the 2 surfaces are nearly parallel, and a nip plate I put on after the pic had the same gap. The bottom of the gearbox is flush with the chassis, and the lower mounting area is flush down on the bulkhead tabs. If I recess the chassis like the xx-retro trans requires, then the top screw will not line up with the bulkhead.

Did I do something wrong? are they all like this? I could use a spacer and a longer screw I suppose.

read question number 2 on the first scan............

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6712

I have a copy of the instructions that doesn't have that update/faq on it.
Never really looked at that post as I had the instructions already.
Good thing scr8p has a photographic memory.

well, the first thing i had typed up was to say..... just stick some washers under the motor plate. but i didn't want to seem like a hack, ya know?

then, i remembered the scan i the archive. and what does mr. moore say to do? just stick some washers under it.

scr8p wrote:well, the first thing i had typed up was to say..... just stick some washers under the motor plate. but i didn't want to seem like a hack, ya know?

then, i remembered the scan i the archive. and what does mr. moore say to do? just stick some shims under it.

I agree, washers would be quite hack, but Shims are perfect for the job

aconsola wrote:I agree, washers would be quite hack, but Shims are perfect for the job

.030 plastic shims to be exact.

scr8p wrote:well, the first thing i had typed up was to say..... just stick some washers under the motor plate. but i didn't want to seem like a hack, ya know?

then, i remembered the scan i the archive. and what does mr. moore say to do? just stick some washers under it.

Is that why he got the nickname that rhymes with his first name?

In my opinion, the MIP solution is cheap at best.

The real solution would be to cut a slot in the chassis (not all the way through). This has happened to me in the past with the trans and this was the only solution that worked when using one of the plastic chassis (pro se, lxt, jr2).

With the graphite chassis, you can space the rear bulkhead and motor plate so that everything lines up...but I don't like this idea at all.

Ironically, I'm building a jrxt and this is the step that I'm currently on. I'll post a picture of the slot when I'm done.

Regards,
highwayracer

the slot isnt to bad to do I had to do one in my Prose for the retrofit trans, i just used a dremal drill press, I put a grinder bit then set the depth stop so I didnt go through, and held it down and moved the chassis around like a mill? it worked fine. looks good and the trans fits flush. some of the Losi plastic chassis come with the slot factory cut, my LX-T and Junior 2 has it. my pro se didnt?

bearrickster wrote:the slot isnt to bad to do I had to do one in my Prose for the retrofit trans, i just used a dremal drill press, I put a grinder bit then set the depth stop so I didnt go through, and held it down and moved the chassis around like a mill? it worked fine. looks good and the trans fits flush. some of the Losi plastic chassis come with the slot factory cut, my LX-T and Junior 2 has it. my pro se didnt?

I did the same thing when I fitted the MIP to a pro SE. The slot in the plastic chassis seem to be a little bit narrower than the one needed for the MIP.

Regards,
highwayracer

I would think that If you slot the chassis to get the transmission to sit lower then the top 2" screw mount into the bulkhead would not line up. Also it looks like you would have to cut the ears off the backside of the bulkhead where they sit under the trans mount points.

I dont know, I have never even seen one of those I run the Retrofit it will take a 10.5 brushless with no problem other than my poor driving

hello All,

I didn't feel like getting a whole bunch of graphite dust on me, so I didn't slot the chassis. In addition, it looks like the slot would have to be almost 2.5mm deep. Don't want to take the chance of messing up a perfectly good piece, so I made a spacer out of kydex.

I have a decent surplus and it was pretty easy to cut. It provides support for the entire rear suspension. I also had to modify the transmission case by cutting a small portion of mounting point just above the 2 screw holes on the bottom. By doing this, the top mounting point lines up better.
Regards,
highwayracer

Interesting, but I sure don't remember having much trouble with mine those many moons ago. On a Pro SE. Guess I need to try remounting it to refresh my memory.

I remember it having some preload per the instructions, but nothing alarming at least to me. Seems I sorta remember that there was a good reason for the preload, I'll try taking my Alzheimer’s meds again to see if I can recall what it was.

I definitely remember that it was extremely sensitive to diff tightening, using a regular radial bearing for a thrust bearing in combination with a very short spring made things just a bit touchy. But when it was right… it worked great.

Oh, and take the suggestion to shim the axles in seriously, the dogbones are a little on the short side. One of my best and worst race experiences ever at the same time, I qualified at a trophy race just behind both Losi’s top gun in our region and a soon to be national champ (also Losi). Was actually leading them in the main, until a dogbone popped out, absolute heartbreaker. Adding iodine to my wounds, one of my Buds had offered to help me shim it before the race, I blew him off. Not good.

Cheers!

I've always had problems mounting the MIP transmission. I've had 3 transmissions that I've mounted on 3 different losi chassis and they all had the same problem. You can get it to fit without any modifications, but the motor plate never seemed to line up.

I don't think a manfacturer will ever say that their product doesn't work or fit properly...especially when you've just spent $75.

As for the dog bones, there are now so many sizes...an the ones I just put on my car fit very well. I've always wanted to get the slider set up, but I've only been able to get the one with the dog bones

I've actually never driven a car with the MIP trans...I've been fortunate enough to get my 6 gear to work really well. I later used a XX retrofit on my oval truck because the extra rotating mass kept the speed in the corners.

Regards,
highwayracer