RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey everyone! Was recommended by someone from rctech forums to register on this forum. When I was a kid I used to play with my RC10 a lot. Now that I am 20-21, I want to start getting back to it! It's been over 10 years now, and mostly forgot about the terms and part names.

Can you guys help me out a bit on bringing back my RC10 to life?

The servo and receiver I will just remove from my Nitro HPI RS4, since I will be using the same transmitter. If I remember, the Orange Team Novak (Speed Control?) and the motor still works.

I did buy a 6cell nimh battery. Is it safe to jump from the nicd 1400 battery to the new one? Bought in on sale for $20 at my LHS.



What I think I need changed is shocks, turnbuckles, and rear wheels. Is there anything u guys see or should upgrade? Where can I buy these parts?

Here are the pics:








Thanks!!!

Welcome to the board...I cant see the pics from work, but when I get home I'll take a gander.

Sweet thanks bro! I see you live in Orange, CA. Is that Orange County? I live in San Diego. You know any dirt tracks around the area?

yep...the OC....

OCRC in Huntington Beach, Pegasus in Monclair, Revelations in Ontario, Hemet Raceway Park (formerly "The Dirt") in Hemet.

I understand there is a couple efforts to get some offroad going down by you though. I think Barona has something working. There has been a lot of talk about a Temecula indoor offroad, as well as maybe a Norwalk indoor offroad.

Welcome to RC10Talk.

You really don't need to replace the tie-rods/turnbuckles, just need to clean them up a bit with a wire brush.

The shocks, also don't need replacing, you can just re-build them, take them apart, clean them up, take out the old gunky oil replace the seals,gaskets, and new oil, and you should be good to go.

If you really want to replace those things, I would recommend Titanium Tie-rods, and rpm heavy duty ball cups, Teflon coated shocks or RC10T4 threaded shocks.

I ran my 10T with the stock tie rods and they worked just fine. as long as they aren't bent, you should be ok with what you got for starters.

Thanks for the help so far guys. I pulled off a servo from my nitro hpi r/c and placed it on my rc10. Right now I am using zip ties temporarily. With that temp fix, it still moves the servo back n forth between turns. What kind of servo should I look for if I want to buy a new one?


Also, by looking at the pics of my r/c, what exact RC10 is it? I want to check out the manual and want to make sure I am reading the right one. Thanks.

Danteazy wrote:Also, by looking at the pics of my r/c, what exact RC10 is it? I want to check out the manual and want to make sure I am reading the right one. Thanks.

It's a #7011 RC10T Sport, pretty late one looking at the black suspension arms and rear bulkhead missing the outer camber link holes. Any RC10T manual will be fine though.

You may want to put the rear shocks on the front side of the shock tower.

Will do, Thanks. What is the difference though?

Danteazy wrote:Will do, Thanks. What is the difference though?

they'll be straight up and down.

What's a sweet combo for a brushed motor and speed control w/ reverse? Nothing to spend a a lot too because I don't think I'll be doing any hardcore racing. Should I just go with a Reedy Modified motor? Maybe the 17T?

Is there a certain servo you guys suggest or any kind would do fine?+

What kind of rear tires should I get? I got holes in it and when I ran it yesterday, it was drifting like crazy! lol!

Thanks!

this is a great deal on an esc:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360100154704

Any standard size servo should work, futaba s-148, or 3003 is what I usually use for basher type rides.
I have had decent luck with the traxxas 2055, which is a bit faster and with more torque than the ones above. These can usually be had cheap via the ebay sellers who dismantle new RTR's to sell for parts.

tire choice depends on surface and intent.
For mixed backyard/grass/street bashing I like imex claw dawgs, or proline dirt-hawgs as they both have thick lugs and last a long time. avoid the mini-spike if you are not running on a track as they will wear out quickly.
if you are going to try racing at a track, use whatever eeveryone else seems to be using.

i have the Novak Havoc Sport 8.5 Sensored Brushless System on oreder and it looks good to me, if you wait another couple days ill tell you how it does in my rc10t