RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi all,

Re-found my only vintage RC10 today I was told this is a Worlds '91 car?? It's in good working condition but terrible for a shelfer. Over the last 5 years I've collected various parts to start restoring it, including NIP replacement chassis, nose braces & nose piece, slipper pad, front shock tower, shell & wing. After looking at it today I have some questions about it:

1) Why does the chassis have unused holes under the gear box at the rear?
2) Why are the rear inner hinge pins too long? They stick out further than the wishbones (they do have both "E" clips fitted)



3) Why is there a plastic nut on the pivot block fixing screw? Is this usual?!
4) The bulkhead moulding where the turnbuckles go in has been trimmed back for some reason. Are these particularly rare/expensive to replace?



5) Rear tower was coloured black with a Sharpey. Same as before - are these towers cheap & easy to get hold?



General piccies:



YAAAARGGHH!! Posted using the "wrap box in parceltape and hope the postman doesn't steal it" technique....



Cheers,

Ian

Answers to 1 and 2:
1. Holes are for the original 6 gear transmission in case someone wanted to run the earlier gearbox.
2. With the advent of the worlds car the rear a-arms were narrower at the inside hinge so the correct hinge pins were from a 10T application #7356 I believe.
also I don't think that's a world's chassis because I can't see the groove on the bottom of the chassis underneath the battery.

what you have there is a "team car".

1) all of the b stamp chassis' came drilled for the stealth and the 6 gear trans.

2)your car had the old syle white a-arms at one time which used the long hinge pin. somewhere around 93 i believe, the arms were redesigned to use the inner hinge pin from the 10t. those are the arms that are on your car now.

3)the hole in the arm mount might be stripped out, so someone put a nut on it so it wouldn't loosen up.

4)they come up fairly often on ebay, usually bringing a pretty penny when they do.

5)i think most online stores still have the fiberglass towers in stock for around $5.00 each.

a01butal wrote:also I don't think that's a world's chassis because I can't see the groove on the bottom of the chassis underneath the battery.

You're right, there is no groove on the chassis anywhere near the battery. So what year was this car released, and where can I find piccies / info on it's original spec?

Cheers,
Ian

it came out in 91.

http://aedownloads.com/downloads/catalogs/cat_rc10.pdf

Thanks for your help Scr8p

i know there are a couple new built examples somewhere on here, but i couldn't seem to find any. i'll look again.

RC10's don't mean as much to me as Kyosho or Schumacher cars, but I think a lot of that is because when I was younger the RC10 was expensive to buy in the UK and so were rare at my local clubs.
Having stripped this one down, I can see why they have a large fan club. Simple design & rock solid engineering, and after seeing them race in a vintage series recently, looks like Associated got the handling spot on for those 1980's tracks.

Can someone just confirm for me; should my car have black or white arms fitted? The box art work shows white, but I see plenty of photos of other people's cars with black arms. Which is correct?

The manual shows wide front arms in white.
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/teamcar_manuala.pdf
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/teamcar_manualb.pdf
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/teamcar_manualc.pdf

White nylon is the historical material for RC10 cars.
In the last years of production, the color became black due to a material change I guess. Both are useable.
I have just rebuilt my graphite car in black, because it was easier to find, and cheaper, specially in RPM brand.
To be rigourous in your built, I think you should use white parts...depends on the use you will have. For a runner, you can mix or use black part. For a shelf, use white parts!

signed: an asso fan who would like to be able one day to contribute to schumacher forum!!!!

Cheers for the help guys. Think I'll run it for a bit as it is, then try and find some good nick used white arms & shelf it - it'll never be mint but I'd like it to be 100% original spec.