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I just aquired an original #6016 RC10 Gold Pan. I took apart the front end to clean it and I put it back together. However, when I compress the suspension all the way, both wheels turn in. I dont know if I put it together wrong somehow, or if this is normal and I just didnt notice before I took it apart. Some of the stuff on the front end is different than stock, so I am not sure...

This is called bump steer which is normal. You can lessen it by running the ball joints on the under side of the steering arm instead of the top.

That's called bump steer, and is a byproduct of upper camber link positioning and mounting points. It's an undesirable effect of suspension setup, and is generally not something that you want in a front end (though I have a car that works great on dirt ovals and has really bad bump steer).

In order to accomplish zero bump steer the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper hinge pin through the lower hinge pin and an imaginary line that runs through the upper control link pivot and the lower suspension arm pivot. Those imaginary lines must intersect at an imaginary point far outside of the chassis. There are a couple of other factors, but those are the main ones. Realistically, a perfect zero-bump setup is very tough to achieve, but you on the RC10, you can get it to be very close to immaterial.

In layman's terms, it is controlled by the upper/inner suspension link positioning on the RC10. Because the lower suspension points are fixed, and the outer tie rod point is fixed, move the upper tie rod point in/out/up/down to remove all bump steer. You can also adjust the steering linkage points to change bump, too, but it can be a little more difficult to pinpoint where to adjust.



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i've had success in tuning it out by adding/subracting washers from either the outer or inner steering ball studs.

just kinda something you gotta fiddle with.

apexspeed wrote:That's called bump steer, and is a byproduct of upper camber link positioning and mounting points. It's an undesirable effect of suspension setup, and is generally not something that you want in a front end (though I have a car that works great on dirt ovals and has really bad bump steer).

In order to accomplish zero bump steer the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper hinge pin through the lower hinge pin and an imaginary line that runs through the upper control link pivot and the lower suspension arm pivot. Those imaginary lines must intersect at an imaginary point far outside of the chassis. There are a couple of other factors, but those are the main ones. Realistically, a perfect zero-bump setup is very tough to achieve, but you on the RC10, you can get it to be very close to immaterial.

In layman's terms, it is controlled by the upper/inner suspension link positioning on the RC10. Because the lower suspension points are fixed, and the outer tie rod point is fixed, move the upper tie rod point in/out/up/down to remove all bump steer. You can also adjust the steering linkage points to change bump, too, but it can be a little more difficult to pinpoint where to adjust.



d

And what do you do for a living?.... Did I hear/read advertising? That makes complete sense. LOL!

Hey now!


Print & web design, but I come from a machinist, engineering and motorsports background.

Thanks guys, I just wanted to make sure I didnt put it together wrong somehow. I will have my camera thursday (hopefully) and I will post some pics then... If it indeed come with the original white parts, then it appears that everything has been switched out, leaving what looks like only the shocks/springs stock, and they may not even be.