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As promised from my other thread. Here are some pics of my other car: Im far from finished. One question I have is the fact of, if I need to make some braces like aeiou did HERE about a quarter of the way down the page. Also when the suspension is streatched out in the back the cva's are touching the a arms, and when compressed they are bottoming out in the outdrives.

Parts Used:
Dynotech arms, dyed black
B44 CVA's
RC10GT Rear hub carriers
RC10GT Nose piece and bumper
RC10 castor Blocks and spindles, with wide GT axles
RC10T shocks and towers
B4 wheels


Let me know what yall think about the car and about fixing the problems.

chris72983 wrote:Also when the suspension is streatched out in the back the cva's are touching the a arms, and when compressed they are bottoming out in the outdrives.

-i had this ploblem too, so i used a drum sander on my dremel and made the appropriate amount of clearance on the a arms
-as for the out drives/cvas, shim the cvas all the way out, thats all you can do...

i beat the hell out of mine and have had no problems

did you use rit dye on the arms???

you need to get the rpm rear hub carriers. the hinge pin location is lower in relation to the axle, so it will keep the cvd off of the arm. i like using the old losi hubs.

those stock hubs are also creating your issue with the bone in the outdrive.

lowrydesign wrote:did you use rit dye on the arms???

I did.
Im still going to check on those wheels for you. I just havent been back to the shop

scr8p wrote:those stock hubs are also creating your issue with the bone in the outdrive.

I figured that may be my problem. My hobby shop didnt have either of those you listed in stock. So I just used what I had to stick it together.

these CW hubs will do the same thing the rpm and losi carriers.............

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTL7&P=SM

but i don't know how they'll work with the ball stud on top. i have a pair, but haven't tried them on my car yet.

I made and installed these stiffeners. I didnt realize how much they were need after I cut the chassis lip down that much until I installed them.

scr8p are these the hub carriers?

RC10T & GT Carriers
These carriers are exactly the same as #7023 without the 1/4" x 1/2" bearings. Combined with #7028, this set will accommodate 3/16" dia. axles on your RC10T or GT.

70272 RC10T, GT Carriers (T2, & T3 when used with #7028 for 3/16" axles or #7024 for 1/4" axles)

Suggested Retail $7.95


Above Pulled from RPM site.

ya, i believe those are the ones.

scr8p wrote:ya, i believe those are the ones.

Thanks

scr8p wrote:ya, i believe those are the ones.

I have been looking around for those losi carriers you are using. Someone had said custom works was carring them, but I couldnt find them on their site. Can they be bought anywhere? Do they use 3/16 x 3/8 bearings?

custom works had hubs that were identical to the 2038 losi hubs. but, i don't believe they're available anymore. just the style in the link i posted above.

How well did the arms take the dye?

RichieRich wrote:How well did the arms take the dye?

They took it very well. They do have more of a gloss finish than the other parts, but that was expected with the arms being as smooth as they are. I think I could have fixed that by scuffing the arms with scotch brite before they were dyed.

What are the chassis stiffeners made from?