RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey all,

I'm planning a "new/old" RC10 build and I have an old gold tub i got off ebay that is already had the sides cut perfect! But, it's not drill for a stealth trans! I remember back in the day the Stealth use to come with a templete. Any suggestions on get the holes in the right spot the first time!!!

the best thing would be to find a template on eBay or borrow one from a member here, or, if you have an old chassis that is drilled for the Stealth, bolt it to the other one, drill and countersink...

amx73 wrote:Hey all,

I'm planning a "new/old" RC10 build and I have an old gold tub i got off ebay that is already had the sides cut perfect! But, it's not drill for a stealth trans! I remember back in the day the Stealth use to come with a templete. Any suggestions on get the holes in the right spot the first time!!!

Another, but less ideal alternative would be to take some long screws and put them in the bottom of the Stealth. Then use something to mark the chassis while you hold the screw heads to the chassis. If you're careful you could eyeball it and make adjustments until it looks correct and centered.

Can the template be reproduced? I ask out of ignorance because I have never seen one. In lieu of that what is the possibility of making a dimensioned drawing of the template?

RedScampi wrote:Can the template be reproduced? I ask out of ignorance because I have never seen one. In lieu of that what is the possibility of making a dimensioned drawing of the template?

The problem with a paper template, other than it being minutely off, is that you still have to worry about not getting it perfectly aligned and square.

Asso_man! wrote:if you have an old chassis that is drilled for the Stealth, bolt it to the other one, drill and countersink...

This is the "old school" was of doing it, and honestly pretty much idiot proof - and the holes in the one chassis act as a wonderful alignment aid and in helping your drill from wandering if using a hand drill.
As long as you mark both chassis plate's centerline (along with the axle centerline), and make sure those lines line up, it's really hard to mess up.

I've seen a lot of chassis plates hand drilled both ways, and seemingly the mess-ups were from using a template.

if you have an old chassis that is drilled for the Stealth, bolt it to the other one, drill and countersink

you can do it this way.. if you dont have a chassis drilled for stealth you could always go on ebay and find a chassis that is ...(its always good to have spares ) the drill plates are hard to find but if you can id rather do it that way. the plate is very thick and made for this job. plus i dont like messing with or putting a drill near a nice stealth chassis

another option would be to assemble the rear end (trans, motor plate, rear bulkhead and bulk to trans brace) and then attach it all to your chassis, use some sort of stuff to coat the bottom of the tranny with before you mount it all to the chassis, like blue marine bearing grease or even white toothpaste. that way when you installed everything and then took it off it would show the imprint of the tranny and also the voids where the screw holes are. if that makes any sense...

not the most accurate method, but as long as you double checked everything to make sure it's square, i dont see why it wouldnt work.

i highly advise using a center-punch so you dont have to worry as much about the drill bit wandering. especially if you are drilling by hand and not using a drill press.

longboardnj wrote:

if you have an old chassis that is drilled for the Stealth, bolt it to the other one, drill and countersink

you can do it this way.. if you dont have a chassis drilled for stealth you could always go on ebay and find a chassis that is ...(its always good to have spares ) the drill plates are hard to find but if you can id rather do it that way. the plate is very thick and made for this job. plus i dont like messing with or putting a drill near a nice stealth chassis

I got a templete from a fellow member. I want to use this chassis because it's already cut down like I see being done to the "new/old" builds!

amx73 wrote:

longboardnj wrote:

if you have an old chassis that is drilled for the Stealth, bolt it to the other one, drill and countersink

you can do it this way.. if you dont have a chassis drilled for stealth you could always go on ebay and find a chassis that is ...(its always good to have spares ) the drill plates are hard to find but if you can id rather do it that way. the plate is very thick and made for this job. plus i dont like messing with or putting a drill near a nice stealth chassis

I got a templete from a fellow member. I want to use this chassis because it's already cut down like I see being done to the "new/old" builds!

That type cut down chassis has been called "siebenelched" on the board and that refers to a member here who wasn't necessarily the 1st to do it but did it with such style that others have followed his lead and now there are many. Just a bit of useless trivia.

a01butal wrote:That type cut down chassis has been called "siebenelched" on the board and that refers to a member here who wasn't necessarily the 1st to do it but did it with such style that others have followed his lead and now there are many. Just a bit of useless trivia.

its also just kinda a cool name for it, even if i still dont know how to pronounce or spell it...