RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've searched through a few posts and found a lot of confusing info on what works and what doesnt. I'm a member on RCC and Scale4x4 so I know how to search for things, but am just utterly confused. I saw that in this post: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483 there was a lot of info. I even checked the Dynotech site for those arms, but was not able to find them. My chassis has a A stamped into it, and would like to upgrade: steering, suspension arms, transmission, shocks, cvd's, etc. I dont plan on racing it, just the occasional run at some construction site or similar. I could just put the old parts back on but am affraid something may break and then i'm SOL due to the parts being harder to find.

Any help is appreciated

if you are just going to be playing around I would just run what you have. Cars and parts are cheap and plentiful for runners. These cars are rathere durable and very bashable, most of them never saw the track and were used just as you describe.

The expensive/hard to find parts really are only the new/pristine condition things for restorations. you could get a complete parts car off ebay for $50ish

IMHO, The money you would spend for your list of upgrades would be better spent on modern electronics.

just run it and replace as needed. i am aslo a member of scale4x4 and RCC. these buggies are ALOT tougher than you are giving them credit for. just ebay it for spare parts.

Here's the links to the arms.

Front: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701

Rear: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700

tallpaul wrote:Here's the links to the arms.

Front: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701

Rear: http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700

Thanks man, ORDERED

Also was wondering what modern transmission and "thingies" (things that the f&r arms mount to on the chassis) will fit that chassis without me having to drill new holes? Anybody?

anything you need to know is on page 8 of the link you posted in your original post. david, paul, and myself listed a complete run down of the parts we used. richierich also has a thread going on the one he just put together, and i think vintage ae have a thread started for the one he built. everything is spelled out in multiple threads on this forum. there shouldn't be that much confusion.

gula wrote:Also was wondering what modern transmission and "thingies" (things that the f&r arms mount to on the chassis) will fit that chassis without me having to drill new holes? Anybody?

there's no modern trans your gonna get that's gonna drop right in to an A stamp chassis. the rear arm mounts are discontiued. you can still get the front ones.

yup, my thread, http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=9310, Custom RC10, has a fairly complete list of parts...with the exception of the rear hubs, which I eventually used losi hubs and not GT hubs

Here is what I would suggest, start your build and post specific questions along the way, lots of them! That way you get what you want in the end. Also, ask for opinions too.

So the DYNOTECH arms showed up a few days ago, and guess what? I only ordered one front and rear. My retarded ass didnt bother reading that the price was for only one arm. As I recall most companies sells them as a set. Well not wanting to waste any more money on shipping I decided I'll just make a copy of them. Being big time into crawlers I had a few pieces of Delrin sitting in my scrap box that I usually use for skids. So I took the arms and clamped them to the delrin, marked it and used my handy dandy scroll saw to cut, man talk about a smooth cut. Almost like butter. Made sure they all match up and filed them for a little roundness. One think i noticed though was that the DYNOTECH arms are not the same width as the stock RC10 ones. My guess would be that you have to use aftermarket (modern) wheels now, which I planned on anyways. I also read on another thread that the A stamped chassis's holes don't allow to mount a stealth trans, but some other lettered ones do. Can someone confirm this, and also is that for a newer style stealth trans or the old one (BTW I don know ther difference between either) Just a question and maybe to recoup some $ how much are the old arms, driveshafts, steering-suspension rods worth? Arms have been dyed black with RIT

gula wrote:I've searched through a few posts and found a lot of confusing info on what works and what doesnt. I'm a member on RCC and Scale4x4 so I know how to search for things, but am just utterly confused. I saw that in this post: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483 there was a lot of info. I even checked the Dynotech site for those arms, but was not able to find them. My chassis has a A stamped into it, and would like to upgrade: steering, suspension arms, transmission, shocks, cvd's, etc. I dont plan on racing it, just the occasional run at some construction site or similar. I could just put the old parts back on but am affraid something may break and then i'm SOL due to the parts being harder to find.

Any help is appreciated

For the money, it's hard to beat the RPM arms. I've NEVER broke any of their stuff over the past couple decades.

Everything I've ever installed (made by them) fit perfect.

Per their site:

"RC10 Front A-arms
The Associated RC10 is slowly fading into history but there are still many viable, strong, and competitive RC10’s still out there. Unfortunately, parts are becoming harder to find. RPM has stepped up and re-released our A-arms to help keep those RC10’s running strong. Our RC10 A-arms are molded in black from our bulletproof blend of nylons and are sold in pairs. Combine these with our #70542 Rear A-arms for the ultimate in A-arm durability!

70442 RC10 Front A-arms - Black

Suggested Retail $9.95 / pair"




"RC10 Rear A-arms
These A-arms are the second set in our retro release to help all of those venerable, yet competitive RC10’s still running out there. Combine these with a set of our #70442 front A-arms and you’ll never have to worry about shelving your much loved RC10 because of an A-arm break. Sold in pairs and are molded in black.

70542 Assoc. RC10 Rear A-arms - Black

Suggested Retail $9.95"

Sweet thanks man

gula for the dynotech arms you need to run a rc10t front kickup and bulkhead. they will replicate the old rpm 'worlds' front end.

not only are the arms too wide for the traditional buggy kickup, but the space on the arms to mount to the bulkhead is too narrow for the buggy bulk.

so, either get a truck front kickup and bulkhead, or get the rpm rc10 arms.