RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Brendan2904 wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 9:58 pm

RC10th wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 9:50 pm Now everyone needs a 10TCC to go along with their 10CC

The manual makes reference to cc parts.

Old style case with spacers and bearing in the case. Felt transmission gasket idler is a part number I don't recognize. Manual with part numbers some references to cc parts, some part numbers not updated around fasteners 15 degree casters 1/4" axle rear Also: Later style steering blocks with a...

Old style case with spacers and bearing in the case.
Felt transmission gasket
idler is a part number I don't recognize.
Manual with part numbers some references to cc parts, some part numbers not updated around fasteners
15 degree casters
1/4" axle rear

The Manual is online
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10T/Classic_Kit/7002_RC10T-Classic-Kit-manual.pdf

Yes.

On May 22nd 2024 Associated Electronics the rc10T classic was made available for pre-order.

This is a new configuration that is a combination of several different iterations of the rc10T The kit number is 7002.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 3:29 pm

patrick21x wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 1:11 pm I wonder if this increases value or Desire to own the original RC10T

I can almost feel my original 10T going up in value
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My very similar looking pile of parts is why I haven't ordered one yet.You even have the right shocks

I haven't seen them out of steel. The Avid shaft is a good quality one. There has not been a reason for me to break open any of my built transmissions. I haven't heard of issues like I had with the Dhawk ones either. The factory AE was all steel. FWIW there's one on eBay. If it's the one I'm seeing...

I've held out this far, but the 10T classic will be the one that does it for me as well. I'm in for this one. This might be the one I buy boxes for my kids to build. The CC was a fun build. The 40th is a box of mint condition spare parts for my current 6 gears. I could actually see my kids being ab...

Fan RC is reproducing them but they appear to be out of stock everywhere. I know Avid makes a version but it's aluminum and I'd prefer a steel shaft and gear. Anyone else making these? I haven't seen them out of steel. The Avid shaft is a good quality one. There has not been a reason for me to brea...

I am not an AE guy, but the 10T or similar-spec buggy (black pan, green shocks, white nylon) would be the hardest to resist. One of you collectors will trade me a Ford truck body for the Chevy-esque kit body, right? :lol: I can't commit 2 blasphemies on a single kit. :lol: I woudl have been excited...

I took another pass at the same motor. I cleaned it up better, but there are still issues with it. However this motor doesn't spin freely without brushes and springs in it. All my other motors have some degree of spin. I wonder if there is something more seriously out of alignment. I have 2 other fi...

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 3:19 pm Well now

https://60years.associatedelectrics.com/rc10t-classic-kit

Awesome to see. IT makes sense since so many parts can be used from the other kits.

Also will not boil the parts, but simmer them, just before the boil and for less than 5 minutes to cure. I did the Rit Dymore project recently, near boil with thin parts at 15 minutes, there were 0 negative effects. The molding process to form these parts is well above boiling, so I'll be careful. ...

Actually it is recommended you boil the parts after they completed a peroxide bath. With no support I have always done this before. My thoughts were that if the nylon is dehydrated it would absorb water/fluid. So I wanted to hydrate the nylon with plain water first so the peroxide would only be on ...

I personally have not had a problem with using 3% peroxide, this regular stuff for cuts. I would leave it in a glass jar for a day or two in the sun. None of the parts got brittle or chalky, I do however fully soak the parts in water first so that if there is any material to wick into the nylon it ...