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RC10 Laydown Ver.3 I adopt front and rear suspensions from ver.1 (page 3) and chassis from ver.2 (page 5) and run this car on outdoor dirt and indoor clay tracks. RC10LD_1.jpg RC10LD_4.jpg RC10LD_3.jpg <Front> Same as the ver.1 (page 3), differences are ・V1 big bore front shock body (23mm), gray V1 ...

I changed a front toe angle (to slightly toe out), then I feel that the car is very much dialed. I will try ASC #27.5 oil for the rear shocks next time. [EDIT] Instead of changing the shock oil, I compared three different weight settings (adding 0g, 5g or 10g weight right by the servo) to check twit...

Thank you very much for your comments. I moved the motor plate to the other side and flipped the top shaft so that a motor rotates in the same direction as a 3 gear rear motor. My explanation was not enough. Thanks again for your notice.

<Video> https://youtu.be/8rKHwBXrcXU

<RC10Mid Ver.2> I use RC10 arms for front and rear and add Kyosho RB7 motor (waterfall) brace with 17.5T motor. Please see pages 2 and 3 for Ver.1 and how to flip the transmission RC10Mid_1.jpg RC10Mid_2.jpg RC10Mid_3.jpg <Front> ・Front bumper (Jg mfg?) ・B4 big bore front shock (23mm, with 3Racing s...

<RC10 B3 Final> I added the shaft boots. I changed to use the center hole on the hub and outer hole on the chassis. The car becomes quicker with 1mm shorter upper camber link. RC10B3_8.jpg To tighten the ball stud from the front side on the chassis, the nylon lock nuts (in red circles below) need to...

Thanks!

Video
https://youtu.be/XAdKDP1zy0A


ASC V1 blue springs are used for front and rear. I use a thin short lipo battery.
Other than shock settings and tires, I tend to adjust a wheelbase and weights next to the servo.

<RC10B3> I try to keep the car as stock as possible. Previous owner converted many screws to metric. I add many weights. The servo, battery and ECS are inline. RC10B3_1.jpg RC10B3_2.jpg <Front> ・Big bore shock spring (Associated V1 gray or blue) and B6.1 spring cup ・#32.5 oil and #2 piston. Shock po...

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB) Final> I changed the weight distribution of this car because it did not turn well due to understeer during acceleration. The rear camber link was shortened. Finally I am very happy with this car. RC10B1.5_17.jpg RC10B1.5_18.jpg Shock setting front 0.71 / ASC32.5 / #1 piston / ...

<RC10 SWB (short wheel base, stock 17.5t) > This car is based on RC10 ver.3 in page 4 (please see details there) and is compared with B1.5 SWB above. ・RC10 wheels for front (short axle) and rear (with ASC9911 CVA) ・Standard battery direction ・Tekin ESC (lightweight) ・Taller front shock tower with B6...

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB) update> RC10B1.5SWB_13.jpg • The car was dull in small corners so I have reduced the rear droop and made the rear camber link shorter. • I changed the rear shock cylinder size from 1.39 to 1.32. • I removed 10g weight in front of the receiver and reduce a weight below the batt...

<Comparison with RC10 SWB> ・B1.5 ver.2 has the same wheelbase as RC10 with the short wheelbase position on rear arm mounts (about 263mm). RC10B1.5SWB_9.jpg RC10B1.5SWB_10.jpg ・B1.5 ver.2 uses 0.71 shock cylinder for front and 1.39 for rear. The rear shock is mounted on the higher position. RC10B1.5S...

Another video
https://youtu.be/BKBG7rQjPj8

<Middle> RC10B1.5SWB_6.jpg ・Low profile steering servo ・Short lipo behind the steering servo ・B44 battery post ・Add a lead plate under the lipo battery behind the steering servo (5g) ・RC10 battery cup attached to the chassis by double sided tape ・ESC is moved forward as much as possible ・Radio recei...

How to shorten the T2 chassis was explained by scr8p as follows “it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the fron...

I replaced the first video to the shorter one. My apology for confusion.