Hey guys here's a quick pic (in poor lighting ) of the current status. The front tires are temps. They are Traxxas ribs that are simply GIGANTIC and look silly. There's a stealth transmission bolted on there too along with MIP CVDs
I like it I wasn't sure if the MIP shafts would fit in the hubs with them being a little larger than UJs are there any clearance issues Are you intending to run it, is that the reason for the stealth
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
FERRETTI wrote:I like it I wasn't sure if the MIP shafts would fit in the hubs with them being a little larger than UJs are there any clearance issues Are you intending to run it, is that the reason for the stealth
Yeah, the MIP shafts fit. The key is to not leave any flashing on the shock ends. If you do, they could rub on the large end of the MIP joint. It looks like they should work well. Yes, I intend to run it. I don't plan on entering any races with it though. The reason for the stealth is because I had the parts and I didn't feel like getting into a bidding war for an MIP tranny. All I needed was a motor plate which Asa helped me out with.
EDIT: Hey mods, can this be moved to the correct forum? I totally spazzed on where to put the thread.
Ok, here are the latest pics. I do have a wing but I need to pick up some wire to properly mount the it to the A&L parts. I still need to smooth out a few rough edges with the dremel. For example, the notches I cut to clear the trailing arms need to be rounded off. I don't want a tear there. It's hard to paint without an overspray film. It's been a while since I've done that.
If you're wondering why there are red o-rings on the tops of the rear shocks, ask my 3 year old daughter. She put them there.
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side view. notice how much I had to trim to clear the shocks.
a&l02.jpg (108.88 KiB) Viewed 2795 times
side view. notice how much I had to trim to clear the shocks.
Yeah, it works nice. Don't forget, you'll have to use the 1.18 shock bodies with the 1.02 shafts. The 1.32 bodies are too long to use with the shorter stock tower.
I think this is the first Tekin conversion I've ever seen with a body. :lol: I still have to bend some wire to mount the wing. Overall, I think this came out pretty nice. The body didn't have to be trimmed too much off the normal lines.
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carloco8, I never thought of looking at a difference in thickness, I'll take a look at that when I get home. Thanks for the heads up!
Here are some of my latest builds. Lately, it's all been re-releases. I'm starting to collect some project cars to work over the deep cold winters of Southern California. :)
PM me if you have any questions. The rest of my collection can be found...
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RC10 Family Pic:
Left to right:
1 - RC10 Worlds Car Re-release
2 - RC10 Re-release
3 - WOIN build #2 w/ Seabass' arms
4 - RC10 Team Car
5 - RC10 Team Car - This is my original from 1993
6 - Tekin Mid RC10
7 - A&L RC10
8 - RC10 Team Car w/ Sees...
Hey guys: Before I start, I'm not done yet. I thought I'd post a few pics anyways. This is my version of the RC10 with newer parts we're all building. I call it an RC10 Evo. :lol: I've used the Dynotech suspension arms to fit B4 wheels/tires and a...
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Yeah, wow! I think those are 1.02 shocks up front and 1.18 out back *I think*.
Updated pic with a few more additions:
This RC10 Evo is a master creation Sir You got 11 out of 10 :D I am lurking around watching what You Guys are making' and...
Hey guys. I have a couple of Ultima based builds going. I thought I'd post a few pics. The first one is a buggy that I would have liked to build back when I raced my Turbo Ultima. Originally when I restored my Turbo, I thought of doing this...adding...
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Thanks Jason. I got the transmission from Daryl Lane. He still sells them and is a member here. The equalizer shocks work very well. If you're a fan of the TCP or Kyosho Velvets, they are very similar. I have driven it on the track but very lightly....