- TEKIN chassis build -
- Asso_man!
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- TEKIN chassis build -
Hi guys,
I thought it could be cool to share this new project, well it's far away from a scoop, but the Tekin chassis conversion is way cool IMO, though not the best looking RC10 (the ugliest according to some people).
So I snagged 3 Tekin chassis conversion kits, all are SNIB and 2 are for sale right now, shoot me a PM and an offer if you're interested... As a gift, I received a bunch of quite neat decal sheets
The Tekin chassis is made from plastic-graphite injection molded parts and also exists for the RC10T. You need a complete Team Car or at least a Championship Ed to build it... It was released in 1993-1994 I think and never had many "aficionados" back then...
I'll make some comments on the build-up, but there will be mainly pictures, cause I know this is what people do like
Here we go
I thought it could be cool to share this new project, well it's far away from a scoop, but the Tekin chassis conversion is way cool IMO, though not the best looking RC10 (the ugliest according to some people).
So I snagged 3 Tekin chassis conversion kits, all are SNIB and 2 are for sale right now, shoot me a PM and an offer if you're interested... As a gift, I received a bunch of quite neat decal sheets
The Tekin chassis is made from plastic-graphite injection molded parts and also exists for the RC10T. You need a complete Team Car or at least a Championship Ed to build it... It was released in 1993-1994 I think and never had many "aficionados" back then...
I'll make some comments on the build-up, but there will be mainly pictures, cause I know this is what people do like
Here we go
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- Asso_man!
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First thing to do is reverse the top shaft of the Stealth tranny, which is an easy job since it already has the correct hole to do so... Then just put it on the chassis with the specific Tekin gold motor plate (it must be isolated from the chassis with two bushings in order to suppress any interference between the graphite chassis and the electronics.
Take a closer look at the "active link suspension" that is supposed to ease handling on rough tracks, it is a really original concept that has never been used on any other RC car (probably because it doesn't work the way Tekin advertised it )
Take a closer look at the "active link suspension" that is supposed to ease handling on rough tracks, it is a really original concept that has never been used on any other RC car (probably because it doesn't work the way Tekin advertised it )
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UNFAIR!!
just kidding like I posted a while back I got a NIB Tekin set a while back. And still have to start that project.
At the stage of your picture, does it make sense to reverse the diff as well, so the diff set screw is back on the right (as "not left") side?
Keep us posted. Chewie.
just kidding like I posted a while back I got a NIB Tekin set a while back. And still have to start that project.
At the stage of your picture, does it make sense to reverse the diff as well, so the diff set screw is back on the right (as "not left") side?
Keep us posted. Chewie.
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- Asso_man!
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As the diff is symmetrical, I don't see why you couldn't, but the access to the diff screw is easy on both side, so it doesn't matter that much just pop off your turnbuckle and that's it...
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- Dr. Robotnik
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Tekin
Nice chassis build mate. It'll be interesting to see how this turns out.
As for the diff. would you not want it set up so that going forward doesn't unscrew the diff?
Ed
As for the diff. would you not want it set up so that going forward doesn't unscrew the diff?
Ed
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Re: Tekin
Thanx Dr.! that's what I meant!Dr. Robotnik wrote:Nice chassis build mate. It'll be interesting to see how this turns out.
As for the diff. would you not want it set up so that going forward doesn't unscrew the diff?
Ed
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- Asso_man!
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Thanks Scr8p, I agree decisions are difficult to take when it's about planning what to build first
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i think the tekin buggies are cool. but they just feel like the components in the active rear end would break, like where the little blocks come down and mount to the a-arm, there's alot of stress right there for just one screw. they are definitely one of the most unique looking chassis conversions out there... the instructions suuuuhhhhuuuuck.
on the buggy i have i de-burred and sanded all those 'active' pieces so they slid against each other real smooth. on my truck i didnt, and there is a noticable difference.
have fun trimming the body for it...
on the buggy i have i de-burred and sanded all those 'active' pieces so they slid against each other real smooth. on my truck i didnt, and there is a noticable difference.
have fun trimming the body for it...
Plus you just gotta love vintage new-builts... nice clean pristine white parts... MMMMmmmmm!
My Collection: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=5861
My Project Pics: http://www.InetRC.com/Album/
My AYK Museum: http://www.InetRC.com/AYK/
My Project Pics: http://www.InetRC.com/Album/
My AYK Museum: http://www.InetRC.com/AYK/
- Asso_man!
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I agree with you, the instructions just suck, pictures are really crappy and I had to guess almost everything from the draws on the box to build the active link system... As for the stiffness of it, you can also take off the active link system, place the rear shock tower forward and use standard rear set-up... even without it, I must say the Tekin plastic seems very fragile compared to the ASC nylon parts... What is cool is the mid motor mount, more than 10 years before the X-factory X-6badhoopty wrote:agreed. i didnt mean to come off like i was bashing the car, i can just see why tekin didnt sell alot of them back in the day.apexspeed wrote:For $30, why not?
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- Asso_man!
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Today I fitted some CVD's and almost finished the rear drive train...
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