I wish I had one of these when I was a kid...4.20.10 update

[Jay Dub]

So, I spent a little while finishing up a side project this morning. Its not R/C, but R/C related. When I was young, I used to machine (crudely) parts in the garage with across slide on a drill press. But after several years of collecting parts, I now have a different way of doing things -small things anyways . I am just learning, but I thought I would share with you my first piece -a redesigned XX4 front suspension arm. I hope to eventually start selling re-designed/engineered parts in the future for vintage and current cars, but it will be a while as I have so many projects that need attention. -enjoy. P.S. I know this opening a can of worms, but I don't have the time to do stuff for individuals yet (maybe this summer) -sorry.

[rc10johnny]

That is XXX SWEET. Johnny

[treehugger]

now that's a nice piece of machinery dose a computer control it or is it manual ?

Paul

[fastang]

now that's a nice piece of machinery dose a computer control it or is it manual ?

Paul

Yes! More info on this machine please? Price?

[Soncho Ponza]

ME ME ME tooooo what is that--(WHO makes I mean), and what tip did you use for cutting.

[Jay Dub]

Well, it is a CNC machine, that means it is computer controlled. For this particular application, I used some Computer Aided Drafting to design the part. Then I sent it through a few other software stages to get it to the mill. The mill is a Sherline unit that I rebuilt and re-converted for cnc use. I say "re-converted" as the unit was at one time a cnc machine, but when I received it was just the mill, and enclosure. There was no computer, mill controller box, cables, motors, etc. I built everything else that I needed, controller box, cable harnesses, re-imaged a computer. It has taken me several years (part time) to piece it together. As for cost, I have about $2000 invested over the last couple of years. It isn't an easy thing to put together yourself, but I have always wanted to build one from scratch, not just buy a running unit. If you wanted to buy a unit, you can get them on e-bay for around $1500. Then you need a computer (something cheap $100), various softwares ($500-$1000), and another $150 for tooling and materials etc. So for $2500-$3000, you can do the same. I know it sounds like allot of money, but it is satisfying to be able to "start" a machining process, and ten minutes later you a nearly finished part. -Jeff

[fastang]

What is the unit capable of cutting? Obviously the size of a part would be a factor but does it have enough power to cut steel say 1/4" thick?

[Jay Dub]

Mild steel propably. I will find out eventually . -Jeff

[Seabass]

Good looking machine man, I wish I had a small CNC but funds keep that from happening.

These sherline machines are pretty sweet machines. I have a 7 x 12 lathe and Seig X2 mini mill. I really hate the lead screws my machines use and a ball screw conversion is still a trial by errror process I am not sure I want to mess with right now. There is a lit for about $1200 which would allow me to convert my machine, but then I still have to get the other stuff to make it work.

How long did it take you to cut that material? Delrin or 6/6 nylon?

What kind of tooling are you running, collets, end mills, rotary table? Just curious. I need to take some pics of my machines to post for others to see as well.

Jake

[Seabass]

Depending on your end mill, setup, cutting depth, etc, you could probably cut steel relatively easily. Just make slow, shallow cuts. I have used my mill to cut hardened steel slides for a 1911 pistol before. As long as you have a rigid setup and a really sharp endmill, the machine will cut anything, just watch the feedrate.

Jake

[Jay Dub]

Well, I really don't like the sherline unit per se. It seems to be good for plastic, and other lightweight materials, but it lacks some of the adjustments that a "real" mill would have. the biggest issue I have with the unit is that there are no way adjustments. I also have a Taig unit (much better IMO), and it has way adjustments. On the sherline, when it develops play in the saddle, you are supposed to disassemble the unit and put layers of mylar packaging tape on the pack side of the way guides until the play is reduced -WTF really? Plus the back lash adjustment are silly little toy like spring steel pointers -realy cheesy. Other than that the units are fine. Anyways, it took about 12 minutes to cut this part @ 8.5 inches per minute. I could go faster, but would need to increase the spindle speed, which would require a different pulley set (which is also in the works). I used a HSS 4 flute end mill, @ 4200 RPM (max with my pulley setup). As far as the material goes, I am not sure what it is. Similar to delrin, but not as stiff (found it in a cut off bin at my local plastic place). I have both acetal copolymer and Delrin. That is what I will be making running parts from. This first one was done just to check out the g-code. I bought alot of my setup parts, collets, etc. from A2Z cnc. They are a home cottage resource for cnc stuff, and hobby (model airplane) industry related needs (good C/F source too!). They also sell Kirk motion lead screws and zero backlash nut sets, as well as replacement or extended axis upgrades. If you are into small machining they have alot of good stuff. -Jeff

[Seabass]

A2Z makes some really nice products infact I have a tool holders from them for my lathe. I didn't realize the sherlines required tape to adjust the ways

You have a good looking part there and that machine makes me jealous cause I want CNC capability. I was looking at machines last night after I got done here. I still don't have the funds to do it though. My wife would kill me if I dropped the $1500 to convert my machine or worst bought a new unit ready to go for about $3000 on up.

Keep posting pics of your work, I am glad to see others machining parts for their cars.

Jake

[pancar]

I have to also say that the A2Z stuff is real nice to work with, but then again I'm a little biased. I managed the company for almost 3 years, but moved on about 6 months ago. I still do a little consulting for them though. The best thing if you are running CNC is to use the end mill holders, makes life sooo much easier vs. the collet setup. Much faster and actually repeatable.

Regarding the Sherline gib adjustment, you shouldn't need shims unless you are already at the end of your adjustment range on the gib itself. If it is all the way at the end of the wire stop check to see if any of the plastic gib is still sticking out. If so, go ahead and drill another hole (about .070") for the gib wire to allow for more adjustment. You are right though, the stock backlash adjustment for the leadscrews is pretty hokey with the brass star nut.

The Kerk leadscrews and nuts are a HUGE improvement over the stock setup, although at a higher price tag. If you are considering doing any production CNC work I would consider the 4tpi setup. You will be able to remove almost all the backlash and increase your rapid feeds. On oure prototype Monster Mill setup (Sherline based, but with more travel) we were cutting a piece of 50# structural foam at 60 ipm and rapids at about 90 ipm. After that the steppers would start to sound funky. This was creating a 3D surface, working in multiple axis' at that speed. The result was fantastic with no visible steps. We impressed ourselves, that's pretty tough to do.

If I were on a budget and wanted to purchase some equipment I would try to find a nice used Taig mill and a nice used Sherline Lathe. They both have their limitations compared to larger stuff (mainly rigidity), but will work nicely for hobby needs. Remember, endmill holders for the mill and a quick change tool post for the lathe will make your life easier.

Oh, Jay Dub, that's a nice looking arm. But be careful doing work for everybody else, you will quickly find that you won't have time for your own projects...ask me how I know

Good luck, Tom

[trey]

I have to also say that the A2Z stuff is real nice to work with, but then again I'm a little biased. I managed the company for almost 3 years, but moved on about 6 months ago.

So you were there when they started selling balsa stripper? Damn, I love that thing!

[pancar]

So you were there when they started selling balsa stripper? Damn, I love that thing!

Strippers, did someone say strippers!!

Yup, there are actually 3 different strippers now (blonde, brunette, and redhead, sorry ) actually the Jones, Micrometer style, and the new McLeod. Yeah, if you are into that end of the airplane hobby, there's a bunch of specialty tools a guy can't live without.

I forgot to mention to Jay Dub and anyone else that has any Sherline equipment: DO NOT use the lube that Sherline recommends for the ways. It actually doesn't film well and makes the tables stick as they travel along their axis. Use a good quality way lube like Hangersterfer's or something like that. A2Z sells bottles of it (a little goes a long ways-pun intended) or take a small empty bottle to your friendly local machine shop with a five dollar bill and have them fill up the jug for you. Your machine and parts will thank you. Oh, and try to make friends with a machine shop. What they consider scrap aluminum or plastic will keep a hobbiest busy for months making bits and pieces.

Tom