RE-RE RC10 Instruction Errors

Post by **SFC K** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 11:43 pm

Well, it seems we have been finding errors in the RE-RE instruction manual since its release.

I think we should have a one stop place to log all the errors that have been popping up and the fix for them.

So first, we have Step 3

It calls for part # 6466 shock downstops. The part number is correct, but the parts that came in the kit are not the correct part and only show to install 2. You can swap these out for a 5/8" piece of fuel tubing per shock, or order AE part #6466 (three black spacers per shock).

Here is my fix with fuel tubing. Note: the black washers in the bottom left are the wrong part.

Post by **SFC K** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:04 am

I went ahead and corrected the front lower shock mounting via pivot ball/lower shock pin (step 6) has the wrong picture. The ball stud is supposed to face the opposite direction.

Here is what the correct mounting looks like.

and what full compression looks like now...Before the spring cup hit the arm.

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Post by **SnoopMaxx** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:57 am

I posted a few photos regarding these errors on AE's FB page a few days ago
Haven't seen a single reply yet

Post by **CCC** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:26 pm

SnoopMaxx wrote:I posted a few photos regarding these errors on AE's FB page a few days ago
Haven't seen a single reply yet

Their tech support wants me to show them the dog bone popping out on the rear shock issue. I don't know if I even want to bother. Just used the spacers out of some old shocks.

Post by **SteveK** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:57 pm

I'll have pictures up in my build thread soon, but the issue won't be the dogbone popping out but rather the dogbone rubbing on the rear suspension arm and possibly bending.

Post by **SteveK** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 3:11 pm

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=33095#p357402

Post by **SnoopMaxx** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 3:35 pm

Yeah I don't think they will pop out
However
They WILL bend

Post by **SFC K** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 3:57 pm

SnoopMaxx wrote:I posted a few photos regarding these errors on AE's FB page a few days ago
Haven't seen a single reply yet

Thanks for doing that even though they have not responded yet. I was wondering the best way to contact them to let them know as well. Hopefully they will look into them on a case by case basis. I know as of now they do not plan to make another run, but if they do they can attempt to fix these before a second release.

If there are other issues in the instructions, please post them up folks.

Post by **SFC K** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:14 pm

Some more info SteveK added earlier. Thanks Steve!

SteveK wrote:Regarding the rear suspension:

Here is the rear suspension at full droop, hanging under it's own weight:

You can see where the dogbone rubs on the rear suspension arm:

You can see a dark spot where the dogbone touches the arm.

The screw is in the hole recommended in the manual, and these shocks are built with the two .031" spacers as called for:

These shocks are from an RC10 CE and were built with three .125" spacers inside them:

It looks like they should be fine for the outer hole in the rear arm, but for the second hole the shocks will need another .062" limiter at least.

The manual is clearly wrong when it comes to the number of spacers required inside the rear shocks, which trickled down to the packaging department because only those two thin spacers were included in the kit. If this was intentional, as some Associated reps have apparently said, then I would love to hear their reasoning behind it.

If you don't have many spacers in your spare parts boxes, this RJ Speed spacer set is probably the best option:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWBR5&P=7

Post by **RichieRich** » Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:23 pm

I went with the 5/8 in of fuel tubing. Agree that three spacers are perfect if you're using the outer holes.

Post by **aconsola** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:53 pm

rear upper shock mount in the new manual has the bushing and washer in the same orientation as the fronts. Shouldn't it be washer, then shock, then backwards bushing, then nut?

Post by **GoMachV** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:02 pm

Because they moved the arm mounts forward like the later kits, the bushing can be installed the way the later kits show as well.

Post by **SteveK** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:56 pm

RichieRich wrote:I went with the 5/8 in of fuel tubing. Agree that three spacers are perfect if you're using the outer holes.

I used four .125" spacers along with the two kit .031" spacers, and that is just a little too much down travel. Five .125" spacers, 5/8" worth, would be perfect. I don't feel like breaking them open and rebuilding them, so I will ground out the X on the arms to clear the dogbone. It will give a little extra protection from bending the dogbone if the suspension takes a hard hit.

Post by **ra272** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:12 am

gomachv wrote:Because they moved the arm mounts forward like the later kits, the bushing can be installed the way the later kits show as well.

In the manual, they said to use the backward position of the mounts, I don't think you can use the forward position of the arm mounts, they have too much toe in: the arms will hit the bulkhead.

aconsola wrote:rear upper shock mount in the new manual has the bushing and washer in the same orientation as the fronts. Shouldn't it be washer, then shock, then backwards bushing, then nut?

Yes I had to mount my rear shocks this way (reversed bushing) and trim a litlle portion of the rear shock tower to avoid binding. Otherwise, shocks had so much angle, that they bend the shock tower.

Post by **scr8p** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:16 am

put a spacer behind the lower shock mount.

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