My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
- victor_cathedral
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Re: My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
mid to low 80's freezing here lol ! its snowing nice to hear some progress on your rc10 ! i've never actually given thought to have any of mine re anodized, not sure why
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- m_vice
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Re: My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
m_vice wrote: in 20 what, hours? It's the same thing at my household.
Wife was using the main pc for the HDMI netflix streaming.. The backroom pc decided it didn't want to read my Camera's SDHC card... I lost the patch cable a long time ago... Here are the pictures.
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Re: My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
1. Original nosepiece was "chewed" at the E...
2. Original Chassis has "extra holes" for LARGE servo and CRP Nerf bars.
3. Easy-off makes reanodizing almost impossible without spotting. (Oops!)
Therefore, using a set of the microfiles (flat/rat-tail) I use on Valve bodies to "repair" anodized valves that have been otherwise nicked or scratched, I repaired the AE on my nosepiece, and progressed through several levels of emerycloth, scotchbrite and steelwool...(stuff laying around the shop) then on to the professional aluminum wheel polishing set I have... and then using the magic of FORD BLUE, (and my Dayton 400 degree plus heat gun) we have these initial spy shots which include post-peroxide work.
More to come in a few weeks.
Enjoy!
fordtransman
(YES- This is the SAME nose piece, front end and shocks seen in the first postings in this thread...)
2. Original Chassis has "extra holes" for LARGE servo and CRP Nerf bars.
3. Easy-off makes reanodizing almost impossible without spotting. (Oops!)
Therefore, using a set of the microfiles (flat/rat-tail) I use on Valve bodies to "repair" anodized valves that have been otherwise nicked or scratched, I repaired the AE on my nosepiece, and progressed through several levels of emerycloth, scotchbrite and steelwool...(stuff laying around the shop) then on to the professional aluminum wheel polishing set I have... and then using the magic of FORD BLUE, (and my Dayton 400 degree plus heat gun) we have these initial spy shots which include post-peroxide work.
More to come in a few weeks.
Enjoy!
fordtransman
(YES- This is the SAME nose piece, front end and shocks seen in the first postings in this thread...)
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- m_vice
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Re: My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
Nice work, dedication is what makes these old cars come back to life.
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Re: My First RC10. Early Cadillac.
Thanks everyone... I am so excited to be reusing almost EVERY part (arms/chassis/nose/motorplate/towers/shocks) that came with the car for my rebuld. I say "almost" because even though the chassis has extra holes in it (manual instructed drilling for a larger servo) the instructions were also followed about notching the bulkhead for the servo wiring. I decided that as I am not going to install electronics in this car, I am replacing the bulkhead. I will be taking the correct long-tube piece from my "craigslist find car" and installing it. My motorplate is almost mint, and I had mixed emotions about "wrecking it" for my Blue-build. After winning a NIP plate on ebay last night for my future intrests, I decided to go ahead and use my original to keep the theme alive of all aluminum reuse.
Tomorrow begins stage 2, the reworking of my original motor plate. As the paintwork of all three pieces will not match unless they are all painted at once, I will be stripping down the noseplate again (realizing it wasn't straight) and Then I will begin a new thread about the buildup of what I am now calling
"If AE had a 6 Gear "Factory Team" RC10"
( Closing out this thread )
Tomorrow begins stage 2, the reworking of my original motor plate. As the paintwork of all three pieces will not match unless they are all painted at once, I will be stripping down the noseplate again (realizing it wasn't straight) and Then I will begin a new thread about the buildup of what I am now calling
"If AE had a 6 Gear "Factory Team" RC10"
( Closing out this thread )
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