Rc10 short arm/ 6 gear setup and race discussion

[JK Racing]

Make sure you dont have rear end slap tossing the back up as you crest the jump.

[ca-rj]

Installed the new Lunsford tie-rods with RPM ball cups today. Damn those things are tight! I'm not actually sure the RPM ball cups are going to work. I also re-did the diff with new rings and a set of 12 ceramic diff balls. After breaking in the diff, it feels really smooth. Now I just need to get the tie rods setup so that I'm happy with them and then I can actually take this thing to the track.

[ca-rj]

I finally got my car to drive well! The Lunsford tie-rods and RPM ball cups were a bust. Back to the threaded rods. Anyway, I've got 35wt, black springs in the front and 30wt, silver springs in the rear. After the six gear lost the e-clip that holds the diff in place, I swapped back to the Stealth transmission. I'm currently running an Integy 27T brushed motor mated with a Hobbywing 1060 ESC. The car runs great in all situations with this combo. I can run a full 5000 mah lipo without the motor getting too hot.

[85Edinger]

What I've found with six gears is you need to build them really well with de-burred gears, either steel or strong plastic idlers, fresh bearings, new e clips, and plenty of grease on the gears (mainly if you have steel idlers). If they're not built well they self destruct constantly. Once you get it built well you can leave it alone for a long time except for the occasional diff rebuild. My short arm/ 6 gear is super reliable, the car gets used a lot and I don't think the transmission has been opened since before the Intriguing Ad ran.

[GeekSpeed]

Hey all.

So I took the Classic out for its first track run on Friday. It was a blast. The thing is rather easy to drive (easier than my MM Serpent), which surprised me. It is kit to the stock manual specifications, with a few changes. I am using the bellcrank steering kit (6252) that I ball-raced, bearings throughout, silver springs with 35wt on the front, green springs with 30wt on the rear, and the high-downforce wing. I am also running a shorty lipo pushed forward and the Integy 27t brushed motor. The handling was pretty stable, but exhibited quite a bit of push. On the kit tires, the push was bad, but not unmanageable. It would definitely be faster with more front bite. The interesting thing, I thought, was that the push was much worse with the JConcepts RC10 classic tires (double dees and rips, I believe). So I am going to try some additional front toe-out to see if that helps. I am also thinking of going with some stiffer springs in the rear. What would you guys suggest? Any advice would be awesome.

Also, pics after the practice. These things are so much fun.

[JK Racing]

Your front looks low, is the front end plowing as well as push? The question is do you need front bite, or rear rotation? I noticed to run the diff tight enough not to slip, it induced push a bit. I was running brushless though. Did you try the Rips front and Kit rear? If your picture has the battery in, the rear is quite high, the front quite low, a hint that you were trying to change the weight bias to get some steer. Try running a bit more camber in the front too, make the edge of the tires dig in hard.

All little suggestion, assuming you are running at HRH with a wet track? I need to put a short arm/6 gear together to come play with you guys, but that 2 hour drive each way is killer

[GeekSpeed]

Hmmmm... interesting. I had not really noticed the rake. I looked at it last night and it is small (looks like more in the pic) but it is there. The tie-rods look to be angled up, not level, so the front may indeed be a bit too low. I'll also bust out the camber gauge and look at the camber after I adjust the pre-load on the front shocks. I think the trick may be increasing front grip instead of reducing it in the rear. I'll try the camber with the JConcepts fronts and kit rears and see what happens.

I was actually at Camarillo, but good guess. I do need to head out to HRH soon. I bet this thing would be fun out there.