GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 11:00 am
Back in the day we would have cut the area out that was interfering. A lexan cover could be precision cut and bent to bridge the area over the tower between the two existing humps. Use a couple small BRP plastic rivets to hold it. Just my .02
Your .02 is worth gold, my friend! Now where in the heck am I going to find BRP plastic rivets
I’m sure they sourced them from some other industry but not sure which one! They were tiny rivets. I’ll see what I can find
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 2:21 pm
I've been cutting/filing/sanding for the past couple of nights and getting so close! I've probably dropped the back 6mm so far, about two more to go.
10Tsoclose.jpg
very nice - side pic so we can see the lowered rake, and posibly slammed look?!?
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
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NomadRacer wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 2:21 pm
I've been cutting/filing/sanding for the past couple of nights and getting so close! I've probably dropped the back 6mm so far, about two more to go.
10Tsoclose.jpg
very nice - side pic so we can see the lowered rake, and posibly slammed look?!?
I performed a couple of more cuts last night and I'm about 3mm or less from resting on the rear body mount pads. It's touching the tops of the shocks now, which will be and easy cut! After that, it's only some fine work to go for a bit of symmetry. I'll bring you the next pic of it done.
I dropped the rear as much as the body mount and trailing arm hardware would allow. It's pretty close to even now. All's left is to do some fine work of the edges and round some corners off. The body lifts off with ease so I'm quite pleased with my work.
s'lookign very good - and I'm looking forward to seeing it painted!
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Kaare-65 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:03 pm
Can you give a tutorial for the Lexan Layman on how you get such beautiful cuts?
This is a great build, now I want to put one like this on my list.
As in all things, patience is the key to success. I start out with closely drawn sharpie pen guide lines marked out on the body. Next i drill (by hand) small holes, like 1/16" in the corners of the opening I want to cut out, then carefully join the holes by cutting with a sharp #11 blade. The goal is to get close to the line but not touching it. I use diamond coated files in progressively finer grit to get the opening smooth. I'm not trying to get the cut out to fit perfect the first time. I keep marking new lines,removing material with the files until the fit is near perfect. It takes quite a bit of time, for me anyway, to get those nice cut outs. I probably spent 4-5 nights doing the bed of the truck.
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:34 am
As in all things, patience is the key to success. I start out with closely drawn sharpie pen guide lines marked out on the body. Next i drill (by hand) small holes, like 1/16" in the corners of the opening I want to cut out, then carefully join the holes by cutting with a sharp #11 blade. The goal is to get close to the line but not touching it. I use diamond coated files in progressively finer grit to get the opening smooth. I'm not trying to get the cut out to fit perfect the first time. I keep marking new lines,removing material with the files until the fit is near perfect. It takes quite a bit of time, for me anyway, to get those nice cut outs. I probably spent 4-5 nights doing the bed of the truck.
the most important part appears indeed to be:
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:34 am
patience is the key to success.
your attention to detail is amazing in all your builds
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Just thought I'd post up a couple of pics of this RC10 chassis plate which I dont have the parts for.Just wondering who makes it and what it is exactly.
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Yes its the HOUGE chassis that uses swingarms on the rear only either black plastic ones or aluminum ones.DON 8)
I feel like noobe all over again. I started this build years ago when painting an extra body I had lying around. After sitting on it awhile I've finally decided to pull the trigger on the A&L chassis kit. I opted for the 4 hole front tower and...
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A big shout out to Frankentruck for the goodies. He sent a white and a black 3d printed rear bulkhead so I didn't have to chop up a decent vintage one.
The white wins me over for now despite the little bit of warping.
i found this setup in an old parts box at my lhs. i like hobby shops that have been around a LONG time, and they let you rumage through their storage room. you'll always find some neat old stuff.
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Well I'm in So Cal and the best one I know is Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair (for aftermarket old stock anyways). As far as factory Associated parts I just get them from tower or of course ebay. Andy Jacobson which we know as the Andy's originator...
I fully understand theory but what I'd like to know is how do they drive compared to the standard a-arm setups? The only trailing arm car I've ever driven is my JRX2 with it's 5 link suspension which is sort of an evolved trailing arm setup. There...
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I used to race an RC-10 with an Andys composite chassis and Andys trailing arms in the early 90's, similar to the A&L ones. The only thing I didn't like about them is that the camber changed alot through the range of motion.
I've got this build going rather well now, still need a few more parts and work to get it rolling. Most of the Associated parts were sourced from eBay chop shop sellers.