Hi, project looking good.
I can share my experience from racing my worlds rere. There are a few things You need to do:
Use 6565 transmission case and 6570 idler (the rere one is unusable, the gear mesh is wrong).
The 8-32 x 1/2" rere screw break on jumps the philips head goes in too deep and they are weak. use originals or get some proper aviation screws like the originals bare in mind they have 100 deg countersink not the standard 82deg.
The CVA have an issue also the shafts are too short, AE screwed it up! to run them you need to reduce droop ( car will jump badly with reduced droop ). Best solution is to use B44.2 center rear shaft part # 9911. These are hard to find but are the right length. other options are B2 Universal joints. these are the right length and fit.
Some people remove the blue spacer and put it on the other side or simply shim to recover the distance on the inside.
I can see you have a Rusty design front tower, I assume its for 0.89"(23mm) shock bodies. Your problem is that this tower is for Associated arms. the Andy's arms where designed for 0.56" shock bodies and only have the inside shock position. The geometry will be wrong. Use Associated wide arms just not the rere ones. All replacement arms sold until recently where original. The reason: the rere arms are weeker and more brittle, they have a wider area for the B5 shock ball cup. If you break one the replacement will bind since it has more material in this area, it will need to be filled down. (not fun at a race). Use B6 shock ball cups part # 91721(short).
I also recommend using modern ball cups at least on the steering arm end.
Its also a good idea to put a nut on the rear of the rear arm mounts, also the rear motor guard bend mod is a good Idea.
I look forward to seeing your progress.
