I had and old CE car and decided to make it a runner.
I swapped all the bearings, went through the Stealth trans and added a B4 slipper. I added a 3900KV brushless setup and took it out. It was a little too fast to control so I adjusted the slipper and changed gearing a bit. It was better, but then I was too rough and bent and broke a few pieces.
So it got rpm mounts, arms, and turnbuckles. Then it needed steering bellcranks, so I used some generic metal ones and added a servo saver and a bumper.
It seems to be doing well for a hard surface basher. What should I consider adding or changing at this point for "preventative reasons"?
Championship Edition street Basher
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Re: Championship Edition street Basher
I have a couple runners using that motor and that are similarly setup - I'd say about the only thing you might want is titanium turnbuckles for bashing durability, the steel ones pretzel pretty easily when bashing at 35mph
Big pile of RC10s and Ts from OG to 5s and an 18 or 3
- juicedcoupe
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Re: Championship Edition street Basher
For a basher, I'd probably get some heavier duty ball cups as well. I believe that the RPM cups are available in three different lengths, allowing some flexibility in turnbuckle lengths and the ability to gain some more thread engagement.
Space provided, I like to have ball studs with enough thread to allow a small body nut on the backside. Lunsford still offers 4.3mm studs in various lengths. If you prefer steel, HPI still has them, but with 3mm threads instead of 4-40.
I may be wrong, but how you have your shocks attached to towers doesn't look very strong. All that nylon doesn't look stable to me, like it may flex or loosen and damage the tower.
I mount mine more traditionally. Cap screw and washer through the tower with a washer and steel nut on the backside. Then the shock bushing and a nylon nut securing the shock. If I need more space, I use a longer screw and a aluminium ball stud spacer between the nut and bushing.
Space provided, I like to have ball studs with enough thread to allow a small body nut on the backside. Lunsford still offers 4.3mm studs in various lengths. If you prefer steel, HPI still has them, but with 3mm threads instead of 4-40.
I may be wrong, but how you have your shocks attached to towers doesn't look very strong. All that nylon doesn't look stable to me, like it may flex or loosen and damage the tower.
I mount mine more traditionally. Cap screw and washer through the tower with a washer and steel nut on the backside. Then the shock bushing and a nylon nut securing the shock. If I need more space, I use a longer screw and a aluminium ball stud spacer between the nut and bushing.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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