TRX-10 Bullet Kick-Up Angle

[gtrgeo]

I have an old Traxxas TRX-10 Bullet that is in pretty sad shape. I would like to get it to drivable condition and need to replace many of the parts. One part which is very difficult to locate is the front bulkhead or arm mount. I believe this is Traxxas part #1630. Having a 3D printer I figured I could make one that would be serviceable for mild running. My original mount is hacked beyond recognition so I have to rely on a couple of designs I found on Thingiverse. It looks like the designs are for a 25deg kick up judging by the angle of the top surfaces of the bulkhead. When I print and install on the chassis I have the angle does not match. I am thinking the kick up on my aluminum chassis may have been increased. I ran the car 30 years ago and have forgotten if this is something I had done or not. Can someone with a stock Bullet verify the proper angle for the front of the chassis for me?

Thanks,
George

[jwscab]

Pretty sure it was 30 degrees just like rc10. I can measure one when I get home, if I don't put something up tonight be sure to remind me.

[gtrgeo]

Thanks, I was thinking the same that is why I was a bit surprised when I went to fit up one of the printed pieces and it was different. I appreciate you checking one of your own for me.

Thanks,
George

[jwscab]

So this is very strange, I measured two bullet nose plates and a blue eagle chassis and they all measured about 22 degrees. Not what I expected.

[gtrgeo]

Jwscab - Thank you for checking. I found two designs for the front bulkhead. One is exactly 25deg and the other is around 23deg. I must have increased the kick-up on this chassis at some point, probably in attempt to mimic the RC10. I had hacked almost every part on this car in attempt to make it perform better despite the noisy gearbox. Thanks to you I now know for sure and will be able to correct it to original spec.

Thanks again,
George

[Chewbacca]

A quick google search showed that someone is offering the Traxxas 1630 bulkheat at shapeways:

TRX 1630

A bit pricy if you ask me.

It might be worth checking out if the Bandit / Rustler front bulkhead could be modified.

Those are like a dime a dozen.

[Chewbacca]

So I checked both Traxxas parts the Bandit 2530 Bulkhead compared to the 1630 Bullet / Radicator Bulkhead.

The simple solution is to cut the Bandit Bulkhead flush with the shock tower surface. Then you need to drill new mounting hoes in the chassis. Since you sait it is beat anyway, that would be the way to go.

I'll try to add a picture later. If you do not want to drill the chassis it can still be made to work, but the cutting of the bulkhead will be tricky-er.

[gtrgeo]

Chewbacca - I printed one of the versions I found on Thingiverse (4504756) in PETG and it will work for now. I hope to attempt some nylon prints in the future. The two versions I found at Thingiverse (2174253 and 4504756) are slightly different. One is set up for 24.45deg and the other is 21.9. Since I have nothing original in hand to go from I was wanting to confirm what is correct in case I do happen upon an original replacement.
When I first started searching for a replacement I was thinking the Bandit part would work until I realized how it mounted. Interesting thought about modifying to work. Looking at the designs for the Bandit bulkhead it looks like I would have to remove the mounting tab on the back and as you say either drill new holes in the chassis or the bulkhead. The shock tower mounting holes are different as well and will require drilling. It could be a cheap enough option to try.

Thanks,
George

[Chewbacca]

I hear you.

Here is a side by side of the 2 bulkheads:

TRX 1630 and TRX 2530

BTW the upper shock tower holes are a direct match, so just 2 more needed at the bottom

[gtrgeo]

Chewbacca - Thanks for the picture. This does make it clear that it would be as simple as cutting flush with the shock tower mounting surface. And, good to hear that the upper shock tower mounting points are the same. This may give me a relatively inexpensive solution and be stronger than my 3d printed part. Ideally I can find an original replacement but they seem to be very rare through my internet searches.

Thanks,
George