was the RPM conversion kit / ultra molded chassis the only one that used the narrow width truck style nose / nose plate out of the box? Was there also an AE Version that used this, or are those after market changes?
It's aftermarket. Andy's had one too that was called the "Pro Race".
Some AE drivers not racing a Stealth car at the 91 Worlds used a prototype/pre-production version of the RPM 7077 Worlds front end kit on their RC10's.
I thought I saw one of the buggies that used the same noseplate and front bulkhead as the 10T with longer arms. Was that some rare model or just a custom?
Nick
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Might be- but they were based off the Worlds 91 kit anyway. The Dynotech Klein arms are avail for sure!
I have a T3. Does anyone know if the GT ASC7305 Nose Plate will fitt?
thanx,
Bastian
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I think it would probably be easier to make an alloy bumper that fits the t3 than to convert the nose plate. Everything is different on the t3 compared to the 10t/t2/gt. you would probably have to convert the whole front end to make it work.
I was wondering if anyone has ever converted a T2 to a B2/B3. I like the aluminum tub on the T2 and thought it would be interesting to make A B2 on an aluminum tub by swapping out the front nose plates. I would have to figure out some nose bracing...
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Jconcepts has 2.2 dish wheels coming out pretty soon for the rc10, b2 and b3 (3/16 rear axles).
im working on building a 100% 3d printed rc10 buggy (I know it will not be strong or stable )
and have 90% of all the parts I need to print
the main thing im missing is the nose plate
I have one for the rc10t but really want to stick with the...
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Hows the filament material hold up ? Will it be strong enough for the chassis ?
should hold up fine
I printed some tie rods and a bumper for my 3yr olds rustler I just got him and only one broke after a long bash session (and was a pert that...
I have a nose plate that is in pretty good shape. Typical arc scratches from the steering bellcrank and the front has a bit of a wave to it. How are you guys bending it back into the correct position without leaving marks or making things...
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Hey guys,
I have a nose plate that is in pretty good shape. Typical arc scratches from the steering bellcrank and the front has a bit of a wave to it. How are you guys bending it back into the correct position without leaving marks or making things...
I've started to prepare for the Ten4 4wd conversion, and I'm using a re re worlds car as a base. The WC comes with a triangular cut nose plate, and not the long and uncut version needed for this...
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Thanks pumpkinfish!
DMAT, If you find it and it's the uncut version, then let me know if you are ready to part with it 8)
I've seen on ebay and here that some nose plates seems to be wider than all the ones I own. Why is that? what model used the wide plate? was that used with the short front arms only?
Can someone post a comparative picture? Thanks
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i have no idea how the hot trick arms mount either. i've tried them both ways, and neither seemed like it was the way it should be. :wink:
Rummaging through boxes at hobby shop I managed to grab one of these not even knowing what it was but it looked special to me at the time. What RC10 did this come on?
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Team car is a black tub chassis b or c stamp should be on the rear where motor hangs on motorplate directly under the motor.Worlds chassis is a c stamped chassis that has places milled out of the inside floor part of the tub.Don
