RC10 Classic 40th anniversary

[fotomatt1]

A vintage Novak or Tekin ESC and a vintage brushed motor would look best on the shelf and would be fine for occasional runs. For brand new motor and ESC, the Hobbywing 1060 and 1080 ESCs are good values. The Reedy Radon 2 19T would give good performance and look nice in thd buggy.

19t appears to be out of stock everywhere. 17.5t should be ok, right? Also, recommendations for steering servo?

[Frankentruck]

19T brushed motor is not same thing as 17.5T brushless. But yes, a 17.5T brushless setup should be ok.

[Brendan2904]

A vintage Novak or Tekin ESC and a vintage brushed motor would look best on the shelf and would be fine for occasional runs. For brand new motor and ESC, the Hobbywing 1060 and 1080 ESCs are good values. The Reedy Radon 2 19T would give good performance and look nice in thd buggy.

19t appears to be out of stock everywhere. 17.5t should be ok, right? Also, recommendations for steering servo?

I am going to use the HobbyWing 1060 and a Radon 2 17t brushed motor with a futaba s148 servo

[drc35ca]

Sylvia Zhou https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100085054200314 Manufacturing RC10 Aluminum Chassis`s and nose plate and tubes out of China ,Give a look? Also makes arms. For those that want to build a new kit or do not want to run their chassis ??

[morrisey0]

Sylvia Zhou https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100085054200314 Manufacturing RC10 Aluminum Chassis`s and nose plate and tubes out of China ,Give a look? Also makes arms. For those that want to build a new kit or do not want to run their chassis ??

"They" go by lots of names. This is the main pic they put up when they introduced their "anodized" chassis. Anyone see an issue (outside of the "anodizing")? I pre-ordered two chassis plates from them, and as soon as I saw this pic, I canceled them. I pointed it out on their FB page, and they called me out for "speaking mistruths."

For nylon, FanRC stuff looks A LOT better than theirs.

[romulus22]

The side bulkhead screw hole sure looks suspect.

[Frankentruck]

That does look a bit sus.

The finish looks like Goldfinger painted it.

[ls1heli]

Since I am familiar with it, I too am going to use a HW 1060. I got a new one with a Deans connector for $14.

I have a bunch of new Futaba S3003s so going to use one of those. I already got the required AE servo arms in black.

18T, 48P pinion secured as well.

I looked at one of the Reedy Radon motors, but a lot bad reviews on it.

I ended up buying a really nice 1988/89 AE 27T Yokomo Stock motor. Got some new brushes and going to freshen it up.

I also have from when I was a kid a really nice original Trinity '91 Slot Machine.

[ls1heli]

Sylvia Zhou https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100085054200314 Manufacturing RC10 Aluminum Chassis`s and nose plate and tubes out of China ,Give a look? Also makes arms. For those that want to build a new kit or do not want to run their chassis ??

"They" go by lots of names. This is the main pic they put up when they introduced their "anodized" chassis. Anyone see an issue (outside of the "anodizing")? I pre-ordered two chassis plates from them, and as soon as I saw this pic, I canceled them. I pointed it out on their FB page, and they called me out for "speaking mistruths."

For nylon, FanRC stuff looks A LOT better than theirs.

I don't know much about these cars.

Too cryptic for me, Chief.

What are we supposed to be looking at?

What "issues" are we supposed to be concerned / upset about and why would AE call you out for "speaking mistruths?"

[drc35ca]

I dont care if they paint them with a rattle can as long as they fit so I dont have to scratch AE`s Rere super thin anodizing on a thin chassis! I repaint most of my chassis1`s with match paint anyway after a few months of hard running.

[RC10resto]

"They" go by lots of names. This is the main pic they put up when they introduced their "anodized" chassis. Anyone see an issue (outside of the "anodizing")?

The rear side "cut out" is pretty extreme = week flexy rear end.

[mikea96]

Yeah even the four in the background look to be drilled the same way.

[1911Colt]

A vintage Novak or Tekin ESC and a vintage brushed motor would look best on the shelf and would be fine for occasional runs. For brand new motor and ESC, the Hobbywing 1060 and 1080 ESCs are good values. The Reedy Radon 2 19T would give good performance and look nice in thd buggy.

19t appears to be out of stock everywhere. 17.5t should be ok, right? Also, recommendations for steering servo?

Since you mentioned a 17.5 brushless as an option, I will throw this out: My vintage 2WD buggies run really well, very driveable, not crazy fast on cheapo HW 13.5 combo. If you want a brushless runner (as opposed to a racer or a shelfer) it is hard to beat the HW Justock combo for $110-ish. Also, you can always turn the power down with the radio. I tend to buy more horsepower than I need and then dial it down. That way I can turn it up again if I change my track or swap the motor into a buggy that can use more power. So for the same money as a 17.5, you can get a 10.5 and just lower the EPA to get the performance you want. On the other hand, if you buy a 17.5 and it feels sluggish, you have to open your wallet again.

For a racer- check the rules before you drop any coins. The class rules will determine your motor in most cases.

For a shelfer- brushed motor all the way. Get one with a cool label that you like, or put a cool label on a cheap motor.

I don't have a lot to say about servos. When I got back into RC, I grabbed a metal gear Savox. It was stronger, faster, and more durable than any servo I had ever used, so I just keep buying them. I am sure there are cheaper, better options out there. I am a terrible driver, my track is extremely rough, I rarely use servo savers, but I have yet to break a steering servo.

[RogueIV]

"They" go by lots of names. This is the main pic they put up when they introduced their "anodized" chassis. Anyone see an issue (outside of the "anodizing")?

The rear side "cut out" is pretty extreme = week flexy rear end.

doesn't seem any more extreme than either of my rere silver or gold pans. Also the stiffeness mostly comes from the 4-40 screws bolting to the top of the pan. That said that screw hole is a bit too close to the edge for my liking. The finish looks like they blasted the aluminum instead of using a sander.

[1911Colt]

With respect to the hole so close to the edge: in addition to it being unsightly and weak, I have to wonder why it is so close. Is the hole slightly out of place? Or is the hole correctly located on a tab that is too short?