I just pulled this out of an RC10 I bought off ebay for parts. I think the car probably has 2 or 3 hours total time on it as it was assembled with mistakes all over it and the performance must have been terrible...Just look at the wear on the thrust bearing washer. It was pretty much seized to the shaft?! I guess I'm in the market for a new one...
The front and rear suspensions were in perfect shape and even the gold tub was only scratched lightly on the rear end...
Whats the best way to clean up scratched gold aluminum anyways???
You're right I just looked at the manual I think it should be fine flipped around. The side near the diff gear shouldnt matter if it's grooved...Good call
Nope, those washers are SUPPOSED to be grooved—both of them. They aren't worn, they are machined that way. Contemporary thrust washers use races like that to keep everything aligned better, and to prevent the inner bearing race from squirming. Some very high-end import touring cars use very expensive thrust bearings and washers just like that. I had a Corally sedan that used ceramic thrusts and diff balls and were the smoothest diffs you have ever felt.
That being said, both sides should be identical and even the same size. That thrust looks like a mix of a couple of different car's parts. Those raced thrust washers didn't come around for a long time after the RC10 was out. There are many thrust bearings out there that will do the same thing for you, and are cheap. Just get a TB that has the same I.D. and you should be good to go. I would guess than any contemporary Stealth TB would work fine, but that's just a guess.
An early 6-gear thrust assembly should't be TOO tough to find, though.
I hear what you're saying but since the two peices were pretty much stuck together when i took it apart, and the washer was jammed on the shaft and was turning with the diff shaft I think it was the stock aluminum peice that was just ruined. The diff balls in the thrust washer were also stuck inside and wouldnt move. Like I said the car was built by a 10yr old or something and it wasnt pretty!!!
What I meant to say was, that washer isn't an RC10 piece at all, but it's not worn out. It didn't work because the radius path of the blue center race isn't the same as the radius path of the grooved plate. That blue center race is plastic, so anything that touches it that is spinning will melt it.
You need 2 washers and one center race for the same car to work for your thrust bearing. That one shouldn't work very well, even flipped around, because the size is wrong, and the blue center race probably was melted in the process.
Your best bet is to find a stock thrust assembly or experiment with an aftermarket one from a different tranny, like a Losi XXX (larger than a Stealth thrust).
the a-3011 is the original thrust bearing that shipped in the first release of the jrx-2. subsequent versions had the new thrust bearing which changed part# to a-3018. The jrx-T production release edition of the manual lists only the 3018 part.
I've...
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thanks.
With all of the losi cars I've gone through over the past 6 years since I started collecting I've never come across one of those.
Was looking arounnd online this morning and saw this on fleabay. Says it improves the diff and gives it more punch?? Anyone have any idea what that means?
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The thrust washers also went through a change. They used to be a hard type chrome finish, and now a black oxide finish...just putting it out there :mrgreen:
Well I was working on my runner build last night and putting the stealth trans back together. I noticed there was no thrust bearing behind the adjustment nut and spring. Just the bronze bushing, a washer and some sort of thick spacer where the...
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You're right! Thanks for the memory jog. It's been a while since I've had my grubby paws on any RC stuff :cry:
What's the point of the thrust bearing on the hydra-drive setup?
The outer part of the hydra where the thrust bearing contacts is keyed to the shaft, so it cannot rotate with respect to the shaft/spring/fixing screw.
If anything, it would make more...
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I'm with you, don't see the need for the thrust bearing either. Or a spacer for that matter, I just screw the nut on further.
About all I can see is its a handy place to store the bearing if you want to drop the Hydra quickly.
I thought I read Losi ones will work, one on left is Schumacher and 8mm across, all the Losi ones I have are like the one on the right and 10mm. Anybody know of something that is the 8mm size? DSCF4716.JPG
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No problem but the Procat diff axles are definitely 1/8 (3.2mm) so that's good to know both the T-Rex thrust washer plates fit.
I haven't rebuilt a 6-gear in three decades, so while going through my old one by the book I noticed the manual does not call for any lubrication on the diff thrust bearing or washers. Is that correct?? Surely it's an omission from the manual...I've...
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I've found that the original manual is much better in telling you how to get the diff set up properly. I followed the original manual and my diff performs much better