And on a different project, I was impressed how GoMachV used a nitro Rustler bulkhead on his TRX-B and wanted to give it a try. You see in the pictures I didn’t get it right on the first try. This is just a scrap piece to test the hole locations, and good thing I tried it first. I got it right the second time though.
For optimum camber link positions you will want to raise it up about 1/4” or so to match the correct hawk/trx1/rad2/eagle bulkheads. It takes a little fiddling to get it right where you want it to be but so much cheaper than sourcing discontinued parts
Really hard to see in my pic but there is a gap under the bulkhead and a couple aluminum spacers
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It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
I was wondering why yours was raised up off the chassis. I did it this way because it seemed cleaner. But I will have to see how the camber links align and adjust accordingly.
When running it as you are, make sure you use the upper set of camber holes and the top hinge pin holes in the hub carriers. I have run them like that before and it gets you pretty close. With the trx3 battery box the height is set as it screws to the bulkhead.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
PhilV wrote: ↑Thu Apr 08, 2021 6:42 pm
Update!
Had some free time today and got one little piece done. I’m honestly less than enthusiastic about it though. I don’t really like the design or the idea of the entire rear suspension relying on one small contact point. Not sure who at traxxas thought this was a good idea. I made it really snug so it doesn’t wobble, but still I think I might have to figure something else out. At least I can get an idea of how the rear suspension should fit together.
It is an odd choice on Traxxas's part for sure. I'll be interested to see how well it stands up to use.
I think it could be made rock solid relatively easily, and maybe you've already though of this, but some thin plates on the sides that brace the block to the case would probably make it bulletproof provided they don't interfere with anything else.
back in the day, a local company Called C&J Racing Products made a simple H shaped brace to remedy that issue. Kept it from rocking and braced it front to rear as well.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Definitely watching with great interest. I've wanted to do a mid-motor build of my own design for years. With 3-d print and cnc-routers becoming more commonplace, i may have to jump into it. Cant wait to see how yours pans out.
hello all, i have exciting news! i BELIEVE i have created the worlds first mid motor traxxas bandit check the pics, it be true. all it takes is a bandit, a dremel, a whole bunch of cutting bits, and some time. (btw check out my amazing hinge made...
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bumps are full of little bumps within them, without bumps in the bumps they are not a bump!
Excuse the crappy pix, but this is my WIP 'retro' NIX chassis. It's a NIX 3mm aluminum chassis with vintage hop-ups. Except for Integy big-bore shocks and some discount dhawk stuff from ebay, it's 'big hair' days stuff -- Trackmaster belt drive...
so i have been looking at an rc10 chassis and noticed that it might be possible to build a mid motor rc10, so here are some sneak pics of the start of this project, input is always appreciated.
here are the major issues
-plans are to ad material to...
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Why not run the 6th cell on top of the others close to the motor?
Mid motor has been the thing here in the PNW racing scene for the last few months. While it's awesome to see some innovation in the R/C industry, I still am not sold on most of the current kits. Having owned almost every major brand...
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From a serious carpet racer who made most carpet A finals in the Uk including British championships feel the same way, lost the passion since the B2/3 got replaced. It really was and still is a fun drive so am going to have these bits from you when...
I put this up on rctech also but I wanted to see what you guys thought. Not an original idea just something I thought would be fun to mess with.
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540 motor plate on amazon...
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It's getting closer. Have a lot of details left but its basically assembled. mostly parts I had laying around. The protech 2 body seemed to fit the best.
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This is somewhat of a rehash of a previous build with a few new twists.
A couple months ago I bought 2 RC10 chassis. One is a vintage 6 gear graphite. It is not shaped like a gold pan, extra wide near the front and more narrow at the widest...
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Sorry for the late reply.
I have driven it gently out on the front flagstone patio. All seems in order ( steering, brakes, slipper, diff etc. )
Have I beat it in the dirt? No, at least not until I get to a legitimate track where I can get some...
I've been thinking on this for a while. Got a couple 6301 chassis when on sale as well as a few other parts.
I also picked a laydown housing to check for fit.
Chuck
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The car looks spectacular Chuck.
One of the best mid-motor conversions I've seen so far.
Just a really neat and tidy design - everything in its place. Well done sir!!
I saw a chassis on ebay a while back with these strips cut out and thought it looked pretty cool. Form over function as I knew the chassis would be far less rigid. I took a beat chassis and started to work on a prototype mid motor. Oh well, here...
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Because your rear wheel will lean outwards when the suspension is compressed.
This will give you very little grip in the rear during cornering.
Terry SC was friendly enough to point out a similar problem with the front links on one of my own...