Clodbuster Super-Stocker build

[andymac0035]

Some time in late 2013, I retired this truck for a while. By mid summer that same year I had built a race-clod and had started to lose interest in this one. One thing led to another and I ended up putting this trucks axles on the race-clod and the rest went into a box (with the other set of axles being sold). I revived it for a little while the following year, but then went back to the race-clod again. I was missing this truck I had dubbed "The Super-Stocker" though, and by May of 2016 I came into a basket-case clodbuster.

So this all started out simple enough. I had the basket case clod taken apart with it's axle's all freshened up and ready to go. The chassis on that one was actually broken, so all the more reason for this build-up.

I had a carbon fiber tie bar I wanted to use, and planned to make my own vertical servo mount. I had a few goals with this. I wanted to add a 3rd mounting bolt to the design, and I wanted to mount the servo as low and far back as possible. The material is from a broken slash chassis. It's easy to work with, I didn't even use a dremel for this one, just snippers and a heavy file.

So this was a challenge and gave me fits trying to make it work. You see.... I had the upper servo block hole and the upper (front) mount hole for the gearbox fighting for the same space, but they did not line up close enough, as that would have been too easy..... So what I did was use the option that tamiya servo blocks give you, and mounted the top one sideways (yay tamiya!). Then I got my 3rd attachment point for the servo mount by using the axle brace mounting hole.

So now I got the servo all how I want it:
There is double sided tape between the servo and the mount. This does 2 things. I helps hold it better, and give that little bit of clearance needed for the screw heads.

So... all set now right?..... wrong!
I got that servo down low, which is great for clearance above..... but I forgot all about the tie-bar needing to go under it.

After many mock-ups, which either didn't work, or I just did NOT like, I settled on this one. I made good use of spacers getting it just about perfect.
The lip on the bottom on the servo mount had to be clipped off for clearance.
I was also happy about the alignment of the steering linkage. (no sharp angles)

You can really see how much chassis clearance I gained in this shot, as the original mount just barely cleared the silhouette carved out in the chassis. Servo saver is a Kimbro #124.

I came up with a new rear-steer lockout using some short steering linkage rods and also used conical washers where they bolt to the axle braces.

[andymac0035]

The next thing was, the anti-rotational brackets had to go.

But how can this be!?!.... Ladder bars need this!... whatever shall I do!?!....... 5-link .... that's what I'm gonna' do!

I took the stock steering linkage swivels, snapped the ends off, but left some material so they would not pull out of the hole. Then I used a longer bolt, some traxxas rod ends, and a short clodbuster steering rod. I used a washer on one side and one of the steering pieces I snipped off on the other, to sandwich this to keep it from pulling through, and yes, I know, rusty motors, but they are tamiya 4-slots with lots of life in them so I wanted to use them.

For the rear I needed a longer rod (so much for simple duplication) and also used a much longer swivel ball from an e-maxx tow-link. The longer rod I believe was a stampede 2WD tie rod.

[andymac0035]

Then it was time for electronics! (it seemed to take forever to get to this point!)

I went with a velineon esc (because it's what I had on hand at the time) and these will run brushed motors, so I got the soldering iron out and made up some y-harnesses. I used VXL motor wires on those old tamiya motors, hooked up with 3.5mm gold connectors at the Y-harness, and then went BIG with 5mm connections from the Y's to the +/- wires at the esc. Those motors may be old, but the brushes and comms look good. Running 2S for break-in/shake-down, and 3S later on. The heavy wire and gold connectors should make for a lot less resistance. RX box is the one for the LCG slash 4x4.

Got to say, the 5-link looks really cool, and yet sublte all at the same time.

Articulation is crazy! ... and a LOT free-er without those anti-rotational brackets.

The Super-Stocker lives again!

I drove it a little after this, and even with sway bars it's got body-roll. I'm going to have to go stiffer on the springs I think.
But still.... I could not get over how well it drove! The steering was amazing!

[andymac0035]

After a break-in running a 2S battery, I put both screws back into each of the "wings" on the ladder bars (I had previously removed one from each wing). Doing that seemed to make things better. 2S got boring pretty quickly, and I switched to 3S. That was a LOT more to my liking. Then I tried standing up the shocks and that stiffened things up quite a bit. It takes away some of the articulation, but this isn't a crawler, so that may be a good thing. The way I had it (with the shocks angled) the front tires were hitting the springs, so this fixed that issue. Looking at the rear of the chassis, I can see where the springs were rubbing, so changing that angle was a good idea. Basically I went back to using the stock upper mounting positions. This made the truck handle pretty good at speed. Speaking of speed, I got the GPS out today and speeds were good, 16 mph, but no better than normal 2-slot silver cans. So either these are old and tired, or there's just not that much difference (4-slot vs 2-slot).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuNGUK635BU

[andymac0035]

I wasn't really happy with the way I had that CF bar attached, so I pounded some long hollow-ball swivels into the holes, and while it did work well, I weakened the layers of carbon fiber doing it, and that lead to failure. At that point I didn't care though, as I already had an idea for replacing it.

This is the middle section of an axial wraith tie-bar. These are bendy at full length, but when you cut them into short pieces, you get stuff that has little flex, but is otherwise very tough. I re-used the short drag-link from the CF bar set up, and added a short turnbuckle and long traxxas rod end (the ones for a JATO).
Having that turnbuckle there will make steering adjustments MUCH easier.

E-maxx tow link is used for the main tie-bar, with long offset swivel balls and a spacer to drop it all down under the servo. Bonus though, it doesn't stick out as far. Eventually I may need to do another servo mount to raise things up, but look at that linkage alignment! Everything is looking level and straight.

[andymac0035]

I think one of the biggest reasons I revived the Super-Stocker was because the "T2 Terminator" build I had done was proving to be not as good in the snow. It was heavier and the metal chassis and suspension would gather snow a lot faster. It's ironic because years earlier I had dismantled the Super-Stocker and put it's axles under the Terminator, and now the tables were turning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4od4wWKPxbw

[andymac0035]

The following year (2017) we got a new mechanic helping out with the clodbusters.... his name is Ratchet.

He's stealthy (or thinks he is anyways)

[andymac0035]

By 2018, I finally got around to putting a new body for the Super-Stocker.... about time since it had never had anything but a used one on it.

Unknown body (I got in a parts-lot), I think it's a pro-line Tundra body for the t-maxx 2.5 if the writing on the bag it came in is to be believed. It came with only window masks, no body stickers, so I dug into my stash and came up with this, I was going for a little bit of Ford Raptor with the front-end. Not sure if you can see it, but the wheel openings are custom-cut to make the wheel base work. (there are still lines from where I was supposed to cut)

[andymac0035]

I reinforced areas with shoe goo and drywall tape under the body to strengthen all the places that usually crack from abuse. I also added some foam bracing to support the body from the stress of lid-landings. I would eventually go on to put the stock battery cups back in place as I got some 3S hardcase packs that fit better. I would also swap to an EVX-2 esc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tucs4D3Q-4U




I ran the Super-Stocker for many years like this and I have to say, the stock ladder bars proved to be the most durable suspension set-up I ever tried. The stock motors would give run-times of 20-30 minutes depending on conditions, and 3S proved to be the sweet spot for both power, speed, and long life. I did try some RC4WD 20T motors at one point, but they only liked the hard surface at the track. Bogged down in the snow they would get hot.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MTzcUNLLek



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gd4OaSq2Nk

[Burniefloyd]

Man, I haven't seen your name in a while.

Your post are making me regret selling my clods.

[Diamond Dave]

Ya Boyz!! Old info on a great site. THX Lowgear...

[BillKrueger]

Brings back a lot of memories of modding my first stock clod! Loving the old v-spike tires! I'm a huge fan of old school tires! I still run the diamond spikes!