slow_jun wrote:Vintage AE - exactly what i need, any more bottom veiw pics? i need to base where to start to cut the front kink up. would you happen to know the part number of that nose tube and nose tube post/mount (dunno whats its called ), and also Links to tower.... if any...
Scr8p - was this a modified Kick up? seems like its machine cut (perfect).and cant help but noticed , is this composite or Graphite? Sorry I;m not that too knowledgeable on RC10/T.
Checked my RC10 and it seems that it will need a very large modification on the front Kick up, just need to be sure before any dremel kiss my RC10...
Thanks.... Great thread!!!! indeed.
go for it, cut it up, I did, BUT mine was pretty scratched up so I wasn't worried about it.
here's my 10T buggy chop up, which you can see I didn't measure enough times before I drilled, bit the trimming went well...and it's a composite chassis
sorry, I don't have the nose tubes and mounts on this one and don't know the part numbers
Ive had these parts lying around for a while now time to put something together. gona cut the chassis down run to tubes through the middle so can some one tell me where i can get them thanks. got b4 cv's front rear hubs gona dye all plastics black not sure what to do with chassis parts yet . Mip tranny
Hard to believe it's been nearly three years. My, how time flies.
I had the runner on my workbench for a little while now getting a good cleanup, lube and some new shoes. I made a couple of small changes, but it's basically unchanged from the original build. I replaced the rear shock tower with an Andy's graphite piece, mainly because I like how it matches the front. The biggest change was the wing mount. For that, I made a transmission brace out of some Andy's molded truck chassis material and attached some RPM 10T front body mounts. The B4 wing mount just didn't work well mounting it to the rear shock tower. This new setup works great and handles roll-overs much better.
For the shelfer, I had the chassis pieces anodized in FT blue and added some additional blue bits here and there. I'm still planning on adding FT turnbuckles and a couple of other little things, but it's finally looking close to the way I envisioned it way back when. My son suggested putting the Lohas wheels on there and I really like the way it looks. I think that's where they'll stay.
aeiou wrote:This project started out as collaborative experiment with scr8p. The idea was to test various combinations of parts and figure out which ones would allow the use of those Delrin Klien arms he discovered at Dynotech, together with B4 CVDs, wheels, tires and other parts. Had some luck with it, so I figured I’d go ahead and build it the rest of the way. I thought it might be interesting to see just how much of a car could be built using the good old aluminum tub chassis and readily available parts, and how close it could get it to a modern buggy’s footprint and (dare I say) handling. Anyway, it was a fun project and I thought it worth sharing.
Out of all the parts used in this build, only the following can no longer be purchased new:
• Chassis, 10T nose piece and motor/trans mount
• Rear bulkhead
• Rear suspension mounts
• MIP steering kit
The final track and wheelbase are nearly identical to the B4. The RPM rear hubs were used to lift the axles up a bit (10T hubs work also). They were drilled out about 1/16” on the inside to push the axles out and to give it a little more clearance for the bones in the out drives. Shocks are 1.02” in the front and 1.18” rear.
Fibre-Lyte parts were added for show, but there are stock AE parts that’ll work in their place. This one turned out a little too pretty (imho ) to run, so a runner version is in the works…
Questions for you about the car:
1. Where can I get the battery strap and posts etc that you have here?
2. Is there any advantage to the longer front shock setup vs. the original car?
3. Where can I can the rear hub / CVD's and front knuckles etc?
1. Where can I get the battery strap and posts etc that you have here?
2. Is there any advantage to the longer front shock setup vs. the original car?
3. Where can I can the rear hub / CVD's and front knuckles etc?
Just an observation, but before you post another question- read through that thread and I will bet 90% of you questions someone will have already asked and been answered there.
That's good advice. It seems that everytime I have a question someone gives me a link to where it has been covered already. This place is a treasure trove of information. You've just got to find it.
I've got an old 6 gear tranny that needs a rebuild, what is needed to put on a new stock 48P clutch set up or V2 48P slipper clutch set up?
I'll put in new bearings, and new classic gears inside, but what about the thrust bearing set up and and top...
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Actually, you can run a slipper set up on your 6 gear.
I replaced the diff balls with 1/8 traxxas slipper pegs, with pinned diff rings. Posi drive, great for mud.
Unfortunately, this set up ripped the ends off both of my Rayborn slider shafts when...
How long should it take to charge 3300 NiMH batteries? I realize that the type of charger may make a difference, but just give me an average idea please. Last time I charged them I think it took like 30-45 minutes! Seemed like a real long time. I'm...
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I ran Venom 3000Mah Nimh in my cars for a while. Some packs are crap, and others worked pretty well. I stayed away from Lipo because of all the horror stories of explosions I was hearing. Now I'm running Lipos in my bomber class car, and it's a...
Greetings all! I've been having fun lately with my recently resurrected Factory Team TC3 that I've had since it was new in '92 or so? I think the TC3 is a great car. Very adjustable, light, works great, etc, etc. Enjoyed it so much that I bought a...
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Well that's a bummer to find out. Still, I'd take Taiwan made any day over mainland China. Most of the high end gaming computer motherboards are sourced from Taiwan.
Hey guys: Before I start, I'm not done yet. I thought I'd post a few pics anyways. This is my version of the RC10 with newer parts we're all building. I call it an RC10 Evo. :lol: I've used the Dynotech suspension arms to fit B4 wheels/tires and a...
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Yeah, wow! I think those are 1.02 shocks up front and 1.18 out back *I think*.
Updated pic with a few more additions:
This RC10 Evo is a master creation Sir You got 11 out of 10 :D I am lurking around watching what You Guys are making' and...
I'm thinking about getting a newer AE buggy (like an RC10B74.1 or similar) but I just can't stand the 'cab-forward' look of modern buggies. I've not had any luck on the internet looking at the usual suspects for aftermarket bodies with...
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The LFR A2 Tactic body by leadfinger is the best B74 body I've seen. I bought a few last year. They have a more mid cab look. Only slight issue with them is that my ESC only just fits under it as the sides slope downwards.
Here are a couple of my 10's,I have a total of 7 and plenty of parts for more! Will add more pics soon.My friends say i have a museum of rc cars,last count was around 33,all makes and types,mostly offroad(my passion)!
Anyone here racing an older 'vintage' Yoke up against the newer 4wd buggys?
I'm going to start racing 4wd mod again, curious how the Yokes are stacking up. I don't see there being a huge difference, driver is 90% of it. My local track is fairly...
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IMO, the Yokes (YZ-10 and newer) were designed to be raced. These arent' just bashers for the yard, I've never run my Yokes like that. I had other RC's for that. My Yokes have always been my racers. They're are born champions and I believe even a YZ...