jwscab wrote:How well does that aluminum nose seat inside the carbon tub? I would check very carefully that it seats flat and flush with the nose, since it looks to me like where the chassis rolls up to the sides might be a tight fit along the edge of the nose plate.
If it were mine and I was going to race it, I'd sand or file the bottom edge of the nose plate on a radius where the chassis contacts it so it doesn't chew up the composite.
Did that make sense what I'm describing?
otherwise, looks killer!
Yes, makes perfect sense. The nose doesn't sit exactly flush, because exactly as you've said; the chassis rolls up at the edge and pinch's it slightly. I could grind the edges of the nose plate to compensate, but as the chassis is thicker than the stock tub, I'd still be left with an edge. I may just create a very thin wedge, or even cut an additional plate, which will protect the whole underside of the nose plate. Plenty of options, but am not sure which route I'll take yet.
when you say 'the chassis is thicker than the tub' what do you mean exactly?
I was thinking by sanding the sharp edge on the noseplate along the sides, from this 'L' to this 'J' roughly speaking(and opposite sides, obviously), you would get rid of the sharp edge digging into the side of the chassis. then it would sit flat, or if not, at least no sharp edge.
jwscab wrote:when you say 'the chassis is thicker than the tub' what do you mean exactly?
I was thinking by sanding the sharp edge on the noseplate along the sides, from this 'L' to this 'J' roughly speaking(and opposite sides, obviously), you would get rid of the sharp edge digging into the side of the chassis. then it would sit flat, or if not, at least no sharp edge.
I mean the carbon chassis is thicker than the original tub chassis, so even if I sand the noseplate side edges to a 'J', the underside will still have a ridge that would catch the ground when bottoming out.
ah, I gotcha.....for the front edge of the chassis, I would bevel it back to like half the thickness, so for example, say it's 1/8" thick, I'd bevel it from 1/6" thick, to 1/16" back from the edge, then seal it with some thin CA.
the nose plate rounding inside the chassis is to keep the plate from notching the tub inside over time and creating a stress point.
jwscab wrote:ah, I gotcha.....for the front edge of the chassis, I would bevel it back to like half the thickness, so for example, say it's 1/8" thick, I'd bevel it from 1/6" thick, to 1/16" back from the edge, then seal it with some thin CA.
the nose plate rounding inside the chassis is to keep the plate from notching the tub inside over time and creating a stress point.
Got the rear end put together today. Have swung the rear suspension around a bit and moved the shocks back, but not sure if I like it yet. I may also change the battery system for a velcro type as my lipo's won't fit between these posts. Have a new set of Kyosho Velvet shocks but have fitted '3-Racing' on the front and 'Losi's' on the rear for the moment. Diff feels super smooth and the whole thing feels very lightweight.
It's a matter of personal taste I guess... I don't like it... a lot of cash went into that ride (actually it made me want to build a carbon tub too!) and still it looks like it was bolted together from bits'n'bobs... el-cheapo 3racing vs losi shocks... rainbow hardware... Lohas wheels... A&L steering... doesn't go visually well together if you ask me.
Lots of potential and $ invested with a stash of new parts and still it looks kinda wrong.
Now ditch all the rainbow parts and replace the hardware by black/silver ones, or even orange (but orange only, matches the wheels), put some FT V2 shocks and THEN it'll be a best-in-show
(hey, you asked!)
Paul
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I like the buggy, but it looks more like, what I have observed in the last few years, as North American urban style. Those colours would look great on a pair of teenagers shoes or hoodie.
Still, the buggy is fresh and hip, so to speak, but it probably wasn't entended for a racing theme maybe? I almost did the same with one of my buggies, but was convinced to stick with black and green
Lonestar wrote:mmmh.... you're asking for comments eh?
It's a matter of personal taste I guess... I don't like it... a lot of cash went into that ride (actually it made me want to build a carbon tub too!) and still it looks like it was bolted together from bits'n'bobs... el-cheapo 3racing vs losi shocks... rainbow hardware... Lohas wheels... A&L steering... doesn't go visually well together if you ask me.
Lots of potential and $ invested with a stash of new parts and still it looks kinda wrong.
Now ditch all the rainbow parts and replace the hardware by black/silver ones, or even orange (but orange only, matches the wheels), put some FT V2 shocks and THEN it'll be a best-in-show
(hey, you asked!)
Paul
Thanks Paul! It's refreshing to get an honest opinion. As a 'newbie' to the RC10 scene, I want the honest feedback. I think I'll finish it and then take another look. The colours are a bit 'all over the place' and were not really planned or thought about. I already want to replace all of the screws with the 'titanium silver' hex type. I've also dyed a set of losi ball ends black, and I think they may look better than the white. I do have a set of new Kyosho Velvet shocks to put on, so that will improve the look somewhat.
I'll keep the updates coming, and hope you'll keep the honesty flowing!
Wow~ Great build! I like the carbon chassis. But I also feel there is too much black. I have two comments:
1. Change the chassis to bright color, such as orange or gold as Paul mentioed.
Or
2. Change the rim to black color too.
I would really appreciate if you take 'option 2' as the last choice.
Too early to know 'bormac', too late to know 'mrlexan', just in time to know 'murphy3428'. http://www.rc-lohas.com
I had a few days off work so took the opportunity get on with some of my R/C projects which included making a start on my new-build JRX2.
First, I dug out all of the parts that i've collected over the years. This collection was started following a...
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Alright I think I am going to build it WOIN. I've cleaned up the chassis, installed the rear mounts correctly and sorted through what I think it will need. I have read a million threads and think I have a good idea of what I am doing. I changed to...
I was surfing through various build threads, copying a picture here and there for inspiration, and there was one buggy that I liked and can't find again. It was two-tone, white upper, charcoal grey lower and had black spoke wheels front. If anyone...
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Yep. That's it. It just hit me with the charcoal and the black spokes. I thought they were JCs but wanted to be sure. I'm building a couple resto sprint cars and may go the charcoal, white, and black wheel route....
Title says it all, its a Ten 4, its going to be a runner :D
I'm building with spares from my runner not the most economical way to do it... Most parts are rere except the RPM arms
and the body post....
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So far I have tried the Schumacher wide cut staggers (yellow),and Ballistic buggy mini spike (white).
I should get proper belts this week so I will resume testing on the weekend.
Couldn't agree more.
