Hey, welcome back. You're back early!
Nice solder work -- mine never look that nice.
Are the ESC wires long enough to reach the motor tabs? I've thought about hard-wiring my ESC's directly to the motor if the wires will reach. Unlike the old brushed motor days, brushless motors don't require routine maintenance (other than a drop of oil for the bearings) so there's no need to remove them. Eliminating the extra bullets might clean things up a bit. Just a thought.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:04 am
Hey, welcome back. You're back early!
Nice solder work -- mine never look that nice.
Are the ESC wires long enough to reach the motor tabs? I've thought about hard-wiring my ESC's directly to the motor if the wires will reach. Unlike the old brushed motor days, brushless motors don't require routine maintenance (other than a drop of oil for the bearings) so there's no need to remove them. Eliminating the extra bullets might clean things up a bit. Just a thought.
The wires are long enough to hard wire to the motor. I like the bullets on the motor make for programing the ESC rather easy.
Today, I'm working on filling the holes in the motor plate with two heat sinks. I've done these parts once before, this time I'm getting a bit wild with them.
I start out with some 3/8" diameter aluminum round bar. I turn it true, about a 0.005" cut on both pieces. I then turn the ends to 0.2495" diameter with a 0.075" length to match the 1/4" holes in the motor plate...
I've never used a lathe so it will be interesting to see how some of my first parts will turnout We have a milling machine at work that I play around with sometimes.
mikea96 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:53 am
I've never used a lathe so it will be interesting to see how some of my first parts will turnout We have a milling machine at work that I play around with sometimes.
It's really not that hard. I taught myself, with help from YouTube. I bought my lathe back in 2003 at a flea market in Florida. It sat collecting dust for a few years before I cleaned it up and got serious about learning.
I got a little bit further on the ESC wiring. I've not finalized where the switch and power cap go, depends on battery placement. I have a few parts coming that I think will work out and look unique. Some of them are intended for a Team Losi.
I've started on making some nerf bars from 3/16" solid rod. Still tweaking them to get a pair to match before drilling the attachment holes in the chassis plate. Measure 3-20 times before drilling!
Very nice Nomad. Having the ESC mounted on a plate over the battery next to the bulkhead makes for a very clean installation. Might raise the CG a tiny bit but I think it's worth it.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 10:51 am
Very nice Nomad. Having the ESC mounted on a plate over the battery next to the bulkhead makes for a very clean installation. Might raise the CG a tiny bit but I think it's worth it.
Thanks Doug! I don't think the ESC being elevated will matter to me.
I got the nerf bars tweaked and ready to file some flats on the ends. Not going to tackle that job till later. They are not in position but you get an idea. Besides giving a bit of side protection, they give a handy "handle" to pick the buggy up!
I got this TLR 22 Slotted Battery Bulkhead (AV1022) from Avid this morning. It's black anodized alum. I'm digging the look. I've got some more components to go with it coming, end of the week/next week.
This can be rather troublesome at times. I came up with a way to do it last night! Once you've decided where you want the flat, file a mark in the bar. Next place the bar between to pieces of material, in this case I used two pieces of a shock tower that had the right height. Next, go at it with your choice of file until you get it down to the guide pieces of shock towers. One edge of my file had no teeth so that's the side I used against my mark.
The flats came out more accurate than trying to eyeball it even and have a true surface. Love to have a mill to do the flats, alas, that's not in my budget so old school techniques will have to do.
I've used that method as well. I guess great minds do think alike -- well, in this case, old minds think alike.
Anyway, hooray for "old school techniques" because they tend to work every time!!
XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 11, 2018 9:36 am
I've used that method as well. I guess great minds do think alike -- well, in this case, old minds think alike.
Anyway, hooray for "old school techniques" because the tend to work every time!!
I just got my RC10GT partially reassembled, and discovered that the steering is worse than useless. I want to get a Factory Works ball bearing steering kit for it, but am utterly lost as to what these 3 drag link options are. Is there any...
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Thanks for the help! I didnt realize you were factory works.
This is a build for a customer, I'm still finishing it. I have to say, as much as I hate Carbon Fiber, it sure looks nice!
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Hey, that's right! I found a good photo online that has very little perspective, laid my six-hole directly on my laptop screen over the photo and resized the photo until their sizes match and the holes you mentioned line-up perfectly. Now, I can...
I couldn't pass up one of these new Factory Works chassis kits. It is very similar to the ultra rare vintage Composite Craft Worlds RC10T chassis, however it uses the stock aluminum front end. The material finish is very similar to the original, and...
with those short screws and no nuts, how is this supposed to stay in the car?
i ended up installing a houge from another car in my ce, but these would have looked very nice in there.
i suppose i could...
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if using them on a graphite chassis, use the longer 7/8 8-32 screws, install the shanked on the chassis (like you would a houge or a&l bell crank with the nut down), slide on bell cranks and secure with some 8-32 nuts.
does anyone have good pics of masami's custom yokomo bellcranks that he used on his rc10's? i've found a couple, but i'm hoping to find some better ones.
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I think those are stock (plastic) yokomo yz-10 bellcranks. If you look closely, it doesn't appear that he's running a servo saver on the servo. Because of this, he's probably using the stock spring set up on the bellcrank. The only thing custom is...
Ok, another question since my RC10 classic is my first 6 gear. Can anyone tell me how to properly install the bell crank steering? What do I do with the little plastic washers on the parts tree? I'm guessing the nylon screw is installed upside-down...
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I wish they would do the old style with the nut on it those look the best.
X2 8)
The last message I got from Barb was on the 7th. And I did suggest the older kit with the nut.
Hello Aaron,
Sorry no release date yet, but it will be soon....
We have a milling machine at work that I play around with sometimes.
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