The RC Corvette in - (1988) The Dead Pool - Clint Eastwood

[GreenBar0n]

Before painting a new set of shocks, I'd probably settle for the dark grey with black caps.

Wish I had thought of that, but the is orange on the way. The movie car began life orange too.



Reference pics of the actual movie car, for this page.

[GreenBar0n]

Fit the Spektrum SR3000 Rx board inside the FP-R4H case.


The blue bind button has just enough clearance and still works.


Getting ready for Monday, most of the new and used parts will be arriving. Really looking forward to this one.

[GreenBar0n]

Went looking for how the crystal appears on the movie car Rx, there isn't one in there. And there's only two J connectors plugged in.




The movie car must've also stuffed a different Rx inside the shell, for aesthetic purposes. The ESC is standard female, it couldn't possibly work with an FP-R4H. Will leave out the crystal.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the ESC and Rx tested, precautions just in case.



Forward, brake, and reverse working properly.

Still deciding on using the Alclad Chrome inside the body. The movie car has tin foil for the bumpers.




Pretty sure that the window frames are drawn on the outside with a chrome/silver pen.

[RC10resto]

Doubt it's Tin Foil?

https://www.bare-metal.com/index.html

[BattleTrak]

The esc in the movie car is a Futaba MC11B (G plug)/MC111B (J plug)…note the 3 adjustment pots instead of 2 on the MC112B. The MC11B/111B is rated at 130A continuous vs 100A of the MC12B/112B, so it was better choice for 7 cells and a modified motor.

[GreenBar0n]

Doubt it's Tin Foil?

https://www.bare-metal.com/index.html

That hobby grade foil looks really good, thanks for that option! The movie car was never shown that close up for a long period of time, I had no idea it looked like that the first time I saw it up close (the day I made this thread).

The esc in the movie car is a Futaba MC11B (G plug)/MC111B (J plug)…note the 3 adjustment pots instead of 2 on the MC112B. The MC11B/111B is rated at 130A continuous vs 100A of the MC12B/112B, so it was better choice for 7 cells and a modified motor.

Great to know, thanks! Couldn't tell from the picture what I was looking at, and I had never heard of a G plug before today; I know nothing of what came before 1985, and very little then, or since.

So the movie car has a Futaba MC 11B, would you happen to know what Rx that is, specifically, with the G connectors?


Probably got the wrong batteries too, but all this stuff was relatively inexpensive, and nearly indistinguishable from the fuzzy movie car pics.


Looks close.



Going to leave the Mr. Outlaw sticker on.

Rook would approve .


Thanks again guys, for taking the time to reply - and offering insight and viable options!

[juicedcoupe]

Looking at the pictures, that looks like a J plug. So it'd be a 111B.

I have one. But unfortunately, it has a bad potentiometer.

[BattleTrak]

Rx looks like a Futaba RP-104H which is J plug…it was standard with the FP-3PG radio.

[GreenBar0n]

Rx looks like a Futaba RP-104H which is J plug…it was standard with the FP-3PG radio.

That's it! The only FP-104H I could find in an image search, is pictured with the FP-3PG, same Tx the kid is holding in the movie:




But it was pointed out earlier by @RC10resto, that 27MHz versions of the Rx come with a black/dark green antenna, as seen on this R4H:


The movie car Rx would then be a Futaba FP-104H, 27MHz.

If someone wants to do an exact replica, now they know.

Thanks again guys!

[GreenBar0n]

The esc in the movie car is a Futaba MC11B (G plug)/MC111B (J plug)…note the 3 adjustment pots instead of 2 on the MC112B. The MC11B/111B is rated at 130A continuous vs 100A of the MC12B/112B, so it was better choice for 7 cells and a modified motor.

Looking at the pictures, that looks like a J plug. So it'd be a 111B.

I have one. But unfortunately, it has a bad potentiometer.

That's also it, nice call!

Acording to the Futaba website, the MC 111B ESC is rated at;

MC111/111B NON PROPO REV 11/87-12/94 1.81x1.59x0.78 19 Turn 2.16oz 7.2-8.4V 130A Continuous

500A Surge

0.0080 Drain

Another mystery solved. Much thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

The Tx Rook is holding looks to be a Futaba FP-T4L.


Just found one on ebay.


it comes with the same FP-R4H, 72 MHz Rx that I already have.


Also comes with the G plug servos, all for $10. Sold!

[GreenBar0n]

In for a penny, in for a pound: The detonator looks like a guitar stomp box/pedal enclosure to me.

The metal holder makes it look like it all came from the same place, like a hospital bed controller, or some industrial switch.

Any guesses where this enclosure and holder came from?

[GreenBar0n]

Late Edinger chassis, motor mount, and rear bulkhead, the rest will be 40th parts, mixed with Fan RC, and some spare black CE parts.


The rest of the parts should be here by Thursday.

Going to get the chassis and motor mount sanded smooth and ready for Rustoleum Flat Black, will spray it tomorrow.


Need to figure out the Rit Dyemore method. I hear that people use vinegar, acetone, and many other ingredients besides simmering water, to make the dye hold more properly.

[juicedcoupe]

I would use some type of etching primer. Painting aluminum is hard enough, anodized aluminum is even worse.