6 Gear Tranny Idle Gear Pivot Eclip INFO

[superfly]

Hey I know most of you hate the 6 gear tranny but for those like me that have to run them because you dont have Big $$$ for the stealths that are going for crazy prices on ebay (saw one yesterday end for 65$USD shipped )...I have some good news if you're looking for that large E clip that holds the Idle Gear Pivot to the spline plate. In my manuals there are no part numbers or sizes so i was trying to re-use the ones i had. However today at the LHS I bumped into a bunch of #2661 Associated Clutch Nut Clips that are the exact same size as the original E clips. Not sure what car the 2661s are for but they work well in the 6 Gear tranny. Now they arent bent like the originals but i think you could put a bend in them easily. I make my own washers to fit under the E clips anyways to secure the Pivot better, so the bend isnt as important for me...

Hope this helps and if anyone needs help building the old 6 gear tranny just ask me I think I've got them finally figured out LOL

[justinspeed79]

#2661 is for the RC10GT, and I think they also fit the NTC3.

[scr8p]

they're in the transmission e-clip ans screws kit. part # 6634

[SUPERDAD]

I'm with mr.fly on this one. While the six gear is not as simple, efficient or"sexy" as a stealth, it is not as fragile or failure prone as many think. When I started it was ALL we had, before Eustice Moore found a better way. Careful assembly and attention to detail went a long way toward trouble free performance. Use bearings. Use a drop of thread lock on the bowed idler clip as you do on the drive gear pivot. Since the idler shaft is not supported by the cases(like the stealth), it is important to keep it tight and straight in the spine plate. The black idler gears were tougher than the white nylon ones. Use a little thread lock on the diff gear and diff tube before you press them together. Follow the assembly directions and remember, if it don't feel "right", it probably ain't.

[superfly]

Superdad,

Glad someone is with me on the 6 gears LOL Good tip about the thread lock when pressing the right diff gear on the diff tube. I never though to try that and to be honest I never really know how much force to use...My first one wasnt enough cause it slipped on the diff tube and made a mess of it.

I know people say that the 6gear cant handle the power but this summer I'm going to run up to a 10 turn in it. Last year i ran a 16Xdouble with an 8.4VNiMh and it was no problems for me...I've got a sweet 15Xdouble I want to try out and a Cobalt 10 single I want to run as well...We'll see if this tranny can handle that!!!

I'll be sure to take some pics of the internals afterawrds and post them, good or bad...(lets hope for good) hahahaah

I still think that this old car is faster than i can drive it...I'm the weakest link on this race team LOL

[Ron Jeremy]

I'd have to agree on the durability part.
I ran THE CRAP out of my first car. I put that 6-gear together without any previous RC experience, save for looking at a Frog. So I doubt I did a very good job. I never so much as opened the case on that car. Ever. And it never had one problem. It did have bearings, however. That probably saved me.
I ran a 7-cell pack and a Trinity monster horsepower stock motor until the brushes were failing. And then pout on another pair until the motor failed. And then I ran another motor into the ground. And the 6-gear kept chain sawing along.

[SUPERDAD]

Hello to all. Superfly, hope your six gear "stress test" goes well. I have a couple of more suggestions to mention. Team Losi made a machined steel diff tube with a bearing in the hub end instead of the teflon bushing, part#4005. I see them on e bay from time to time. I have always used one and they work. Plus you can squeeze the diff gear on a little firmer without worrying about deforming the stock aluminum tube and you still use the bushing in the gear end. With the tapered seat and a little loctite it shouldn't take a lot of pressure. Also, replace the felt seals and retainer rings on the drivegear hubs with 3/8x5/8 bearings. They will fit right in the case and provide much needed support in this area. These are the same bearings that the stealth uses on the inside of the case to support the diff. This is probably the most important mod if you are going to use a really hot motor and battery. And if that 10 turn single don't kill it, you got you somethin'!

[superfly]

Superdad way ahead of you partner, got the losi bearing tube and the outdrive bearings you're right the outdrive bearings are critical hop-ups...the other thing i might try is dual thrust bearings (two) i saw on a rcca mag article...I'll see once my thrust bearings come in from ebay...

[Eau Rouge]

Hey I know most of you hate the 6 gear tranny but for those like me that have to run them because you dont have Big $$$ for the stealths that are going for crazy prices on ebay (saw one yesterday end for 65$USD shipped )

FWIW, $65 isn't THAT much for a good, clean original white diff... B2/B3 diffs still can pull $45 to $65 easily if it's in good shape, and the Thorp 64p internals for an original Stealth have been selling for $40+ for MANY years. $65 for a Stealth is pretty reasonable, really, if it's got low mileage. A new MIP could fetch double that, or more, if the conditions are right.

[superfly]

apex you're right I've watched them all week on ebay go for over 50US + shipping/handling...I was hoping for under 30 but I think I'm fooling myself...there are too many guys looking for them it seems, always a bidding war on ebay. I just spent too much cash on ebay in the last few months...by the time I get a stealth to Canada its near 100$ Canadian And you can never really tell how good a shape they are till they get to your door. The internals could be totally screwed and then you're at tower buying everything in the store to get them to run...oh well the joys of the vintage

[knucklebuster]

WOW lots of info on the 6 gear!

Funny, one of my smoothest (although least efficient) 6 gears is fully bushed. I added bearings to the drive gears and later removed them. I didn't replace the felt seals and retainers as this rig stays on the road. The idlers still look good after about 25 runs with what I think is an 11 turn Speed Gems.