I know there are a lot of us that run modern RC's so I figured I'd get the ball rollin on some B4 knowledge that I know is in this forum
So if you have any setup tips, tricks, etc. post them up!
Right now I'm running the "soft" setup on AE's website. I'm also running everything plastic except the main chassis is carbon. I've also switched out the rear hubs to B44 rear hubs as it has a bigger outer bearing to handle more power and not blow out bearings as much. Bleeder caps, don't use the aluminum or the aluminum shock mounts either, too much slop.
The carbon chassis will work on a high bite track, but if you are on a marginal track the plastic will actually give you more bite. Also, we currently run the lightweight setup with the 4th hole drilled in the rear tower, black springs with B44 spring cups and cut black springs. This setup seems to work pretty good on almost every surface. The front is pretty standard with the brown springs and mounting locations. My son drives for AE and runs plastic everything with this setup.
on ft front axles ditch the pan head screws and use cap head screws. the larger hex is a bit less likely to strip using L wrenches. sure they stick out a fraction more but when was the last time you heard somebody use the excuse "my front wheel bolt got hung up on the pipe causing me to wreak. that's why i lost."
may seem small and lame but try to get a stripped pan head screw out at the track between heats.
JHarris wrote:The carbon chassis will work on a high bite track, but if you are on a marginal track the plastic will actually give you more bite. Also, we currently run the lightweight setup with the 4th hole drilled in the rear tower, black springs with B44 spring cups and cut black springs. This setup seems to work pretty good on almost every surface. The front is pretty standard with the brown springs and mounting locations. My son drives for AE and runs plastic everything with this setup.
How much of the spring do you cut and any pics please?
This isn't the greatest picture but it will do for now. I took this with my phone at the track yesterday. After I clean everything up I can post pictures of the car.
Thanks! I'm looking for any setup info for my new B4.1 brushless. Took it to the track for the first time yesterday. I really need to learn to drive it!!!
The one thing I noticed at my last race is after going to the 30 degree casters I had to move the top of the front shocks to the outermost hole. Now I have good turn in stability and it turns a lot better.
Got any T4 tips? I just got a bunch of T4.1 parts off Ebay, so now I have a pretty much brand new T4.1 with a ball diff. I've never really raced stadium truck though.
Mark
Aaaaahhhh crap! I'm about to get passed by that orange truck!
OK, got the dumb question for you on the b4 setup....wait for it....wait for it....this is for offroad course or for offroad oval or onroad course (well you get the idea)?
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
Wasn’t there a car action article or maybe a booklet written by a prominent racer back in the day on making the 6-gear badass?
I seem to remember something like that but can’t remember exactly. Anybody already post it on this site?
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Very cool, thanks for the info.
Oh yeah...
And after spending the requesite 4 hours or more, probably more, perfecting a 6gear take an air gun and spin the heck out of the trans by spinning the spur gear.
Then dissasemble clean the bearings...
I've recently done a few stealths, and in looking through the posts on this forum, I've only managed to find bits and pieces of a few members input. I've seen everything from using toothpaste to break the gears in, to sanding the diff discs. If the...
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Spring Tricks....Before installing the diff springs compress each one a couple of times with a pair of pliers...Compressing them before installing them slightly shortens them and makes assembling the diff easier...It also reduces the chances of the...
So I am reading through the Classic build threads, etc, in anticipation of starting one of my Classic's this weekend with my 10 year old daughter (her car actually).
Thought it might be a good idea to have a single thread where folks can post up...
Hi all; first post ever om rc10talk...
Any tips on how to be able to purchase cars like the XLS rere which are discontinued?
eBay has some listings for outrageous amounts so that's not an option for me.
I have the time and patience but pockets...
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If it's discontinued you have to treat looking for it like an original, with potentially more of them around. If you must have it now and have deep pockets there's plenty of options for big money from people who are looking to flip nib kits....
...or is there one already and I haven't seen it?!
I was going back and reading that traxxas bandit sliders can be fit very easily to replace the stock losi ones, and realized there isn't a consolidated thread for all of the retrofit, and...
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LXT and Pro SE have narrow chassis. Not a big deal on the LXT but the the Pro SE body won't fit over the the Pro chassis.
True, but it is easier to remove material then add it, a chassis cut to wide specs is less then half inch away per side from...
if i steer all the way in 1 direction the inner side tierods hit when i compress the shock(turn right its the right side, turn left its left side) anyway to prevent this???
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as far as loctite ,that does not have effect on the threads in the nose plate when you disassemble the car??
I agree with what Mark said and just use a 'dab'. It won't affect the threads if you use the stuff that will come back apart. Different...
