Guys,
A few years ago I got some decent looking Technacraft aluminum wheels on a Gold Pan that I bought on Ebay.
I'm just getting to them:
I was hoping to get some advice on what to use to clean and polish them. I'm going to disassemble them to clean/polish, but I'm not sure what cleaners are safe for the aluminum.
And also, I'm going to need new rubber for them. The old Shumacher Cat mini-pin spikes were dry-rotted really bad. Does anyone know if any manufacturers make tires that fit them? They appear to be the stock wheel sizes.
I would first disassemble and clean up with plain old dish soap and water, and be sure that the screws and threads are OK, then reassemble after a thorough drying and cleaning up of the hardware.(wirewheel or whatever to clean up the screws)
its hard to say how much oxidation is on them from your phone pics.
But if they were mine with an average amount of surface blemish, I would chuck them into a drill press/lathe/hand drill (whatever you have at hand) and use some scotchbrite on the outer rims to clean up any oxidation marks.
the next part would be to use a dremel and buffing points and polishing compound and polish up the spokes the best that you can, followed by the outer rings.
I would have to ask around to figure out the best way to preserve them from there, maybe a light clear coat of some kind or a sealer wax.
yes, that is what it is designed to do. If you can spin them in a drill, like I said, you will get a very nice brushed finish that can be further polished with the dremel. Scotchbrite would take a very long time to ruin the wheels. If they are already polished nicely, except for the oxidation marks, you can probably skip the scotchbrite and go right to the buffing points
rc10johnny wrote:I believe you need troopers sister
Wow! That's.....really....white.....
Very nice!
And yes, the Technacraft wheels came from the factory(back when they were new) with a gloss finish. That's why I was so apprehensive about using Scotchbrite.
That may be my only alternative. I was hoping to find some "Magic Bullet" I guess.
Thanks again for commenting!
I'm not sure I have pics but I bought some beat up old aluminum wheels for cheap that were heavily oxidized and spotty. I used scotchbright, 0000 steel wool, and the dremel to polish them to a mirror finish. Aluminum is very forgiving. You just have to bite the bullet, scuff them and go through progressively finer media until you get the finish you like. Any metal polish will make them shiny, it's the smoothess of the finish that really makes them stand out.
This is KingCobra's build and I always wanted to know who made these wheels and where I can get them for my rc10 or where they a custom make by some machinist? Anyone have any intel on them? Please post.
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Since these wheels were designed with off road buggys in mind, it is normal for the rears to be a smaller diameter. What you need to do is find a tire with a taller sidewall to get the car to sit and look right. Maybe some foams?
Hey all,I have been prowling many sites over the years and have seen no guide to all of the differences and/or the styles of the multiple manufacturers of aftermarket aluminum wheels. Especially all of the ones specifically for rc10's. In my opinion...
So I am converting this RC10T im building to 3/16 but I want to eventually breakdown and get some aluminum wheels. Would it benefit me to run 3/16 or should I just stick with 1/4 because I want to run maybe vintage aluminum wheels?
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Thats not bad a price, I expected to pay at least $100 for a nice set of aluminum wheels.
I bought these for a future fox project. The fronts had common Tamiya bearings but there is no aluminum in between to seat the bearing. The bearings slip right threw. No wonder they were never used. I assume they take a flanged bearing but what...
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Those wheels are quite narrow, 5x11 flanged bearings should do the trick. I gave a set to my buddy to use on his girlfriend's Buffalo that I restored, after removing the dull, faded red anodizing and polishing them up.
