Ok, so working on a RC10 for my buddy to run in the vintage class in an upcoming race. I don't want to throw money at this car. So thinking of using just random parts laying around.
First, this chassis came in with the sprint car and I just assumed this chassis is junk due to the rear is jacked up.
So I know there are a ton of receipts on here from WOIN to CE Racer....well I'm still just have to get my McGyver on. Had him B4.2 over so we can see what we can't mess around with. I put the 20* B4.2 block (pictured on the right) on as I've read it would be about 25* on the RC10. This is with the whole hex assembly. Pictured on the left is what I'm assuming to be an old CW castor block with the angled spindles with a Evader BX wheel I found laying around. The width is almost the same. On the rear I mocked up a B4.2 rear hub but it's too narrow. I'm happy with the width of the Evader BX rears using the Losi hubs.
That's where I'm at now. I don't know if I want him to run that front shock tower and might just put a 6 hole fiberglass on it.
The angled front castor block is from Robinson Racing. You might have got them from your Nemesis.
Are those aluminum or titanium out drives in the Stealth? I personally would have no qualms running that shock tower, but I wouldn't like to see the RRP steering and outdrives damaged.
It wouldn't be pretty, but you could probably get away with making some fiberglass or sheetmetal braces to reconnect the tub sides to the rear bulkhead with some 4-40 hardware. It would be worth trying if you didn't want to spend money on it.
FYI, you have the rear arm mounts on the wrong sides...
Aluminum braces made. I'm leaning towards the B4 casters. Already mounted them up. Just trying to decide if I actually want to bite the bullet on the extended shock towers to run modern shocks. I'll re check the rear mounts....they've been on and off so many times I probably wasn't paying attention the last time.
So searching thru one of this kids boxes and found 3* blocks (must have been some old Randy Dumas leftovers as this kid is 21). Sadly they've been modified. Dang dirt oval guys.
Had a little time tonight so took off the parts I care about and put on parts I don't care so much about. Raped the B4.2 some more too. So tried the 3* blocks but they are too far cut and would fail if that rear tire took a shot. So found some unmarked blocks and I'm hoping they are the 1.5 or whatever it is. Also, the RPM truck bulkhead is not mint so I figured what the heck. I put Losi hubs on the rear off my XXXT parts. Also put in the B44 CVDs with the hex adapters off the B4.2. The front is wide arms with B4.2 castors, spindle blocks, spindles (hex). This kid has a lot of the Hex rims so that's why we went that route. Waiting on some towers to mount the big bores and we should be ready to tear down and get it ready.
Johnboy72 wrote:Phin, that trans with the blue outdrives was removed as that diff was tightened so much the driveshaft binded on the screw that was sticking out.
Are the Losi XXXT hubs similar to the B4 hubs? I'm assuming they're offset further out than stock RC10 hubs and that's how you're using B44 CVD? With B4 hub carriers some had to shave some material out, from the inside of the hub, to make room for the longer drive shafts, or else the shafts would bind like how you had with the blue diff halves.
So I guess they are going to try a vintage class this year. Would be nice to see some RC10talk members show up.
I'm not an off road guy(but not too shabby) so I'm thinking I need to get an RC10 ready. Possibly put another together as a truck for...
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The vintage class is restricted to 17.5 2s. I'm thinking of at least looking on tower for the Jconcept wheels or the AE parts to run modern wheels. Reg I'll look for your CE thread if you don't think that modern wheels are a good idea.
I just scored a RPM worlds car in good condition with a few scratches. Overall the car is a 8-9 out of 10. I am in the process of two separate projects one a klein arm tub car and a custom trailing arm /GT2 dual deck car. I am guessing that i could...
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there is a nice red one on the bay at the mo i cant post link in here but will pm it to you rtr for ya
This is my build-up thread for what is my first RC10.... I now also own a nice Gold Pan RC10.... but this is my project car & one that I intend to be my vintage runner (hopefully to be equipped with a Brushless motor &...
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That's great work. You guys continue to inspire, what you called a runner to begin with would have been a proud shelf queen for me. Congrats!
Thanks RCveteren :) .... all of the cars on the shelf are basically retired racers... its the current...
Hi,
UPS delivered this last week...I'm new to RC, so I'd love to hear all about Race Prep and their gear.
It can be plugged in for AC. It has clips for DC. And you can plug in a volt meter to see the battery's voltage. Seems to be working great....
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got a couple of old chargers like that. just collecting dust and taking up shelf space. They a more of an antiquity and do more damage than good usually.
I HAVE BEEN OUT OF RC A LONG TIME BUT I WAS A RACE PREP TEAM DRIVER IN 1988-90 AND RECIEVED ONE OF THE 1ST 8 CARS THAT CAME TO THE USA. I STILL HAVE IT AND WOULD LIKE TO RESTORE IT BACK, DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXTRA PARTS FOR THESE CARS? THEY DID A...
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easiest way without using a hosting site is to open the file in microsoft paint, select 'image' then>> 'stretch/skew' and change the X and Y to 50%. this should have a huge effect on the file size, then save as .jpg, and you should end up with an...
