Getting the big Fairlane back on the road.... Going the whole 9 inches

[RC10th]

Molded carpet came the other day but I'm unsure on the quality, could be better or worse, time will tell.

Once it's in the car you couldn't tell anyways.

Putting it in will be my weekend project.

[RC10th]

My first real update in as long as I can remember.....

Managed to shed the big BBQ bottle in the back and free up some trunk space. Hopefully taking that much weight out should give the car a bit more spunk. I'm also real happy I was able to install the trunk springs, no more heavy trunk lid held up by a stick.

I was hoping to install the carpet today but I'm not really fussed on the color compared to what was in the car, it's a bit lighter and more baby blue, it probably actually suits the interior color a bit better but I dont like change, lol.

[RC10th]

Finished my console, a simple little thing that just finishes it off nicely.

The old shifter used a slide that just slid back and forth with the shifter, the B&M moves forwards and back but also moves up and down so the stock slide couldn't be used. I used cat whiskers from a Raven door seal to seal/fill in the hole. The bristles were too long so I had to cut them down which was fun. I tried scissors which didn't work, spru cutters, knife, snips etc, all no good. I ended up putting them in a vise and used electric clippers to trim them. It worked surprisingly well as the jaws made a nice guide for a lazer straight cut. The end result looks pretty factory in my opinion.

After

Before

I also put the carpet in which fits terribly, I'm not one to complain but I will contact the company and tell them I'm disappointed in the fitment. The rear section actually fits well but is much shorter than the original carpet. The front section is all kinds of wrong and I came to the conclusion no matter what I did it wasn't going to fit right. The front section is too long by about 4"- 5", I probably could have made it fit better by cutting the nice stitched end off so it sits further forward, but then it likely wouldn't have covered the rear carpet. It is what it is, hopefully they'll do something about it.

[RC10th]

Now that I found a u-joint to connect the stock driveshaft to the yoke I can finally start putting it together. .

[RC10th]

My first real update in what seems like an eternity.

I ended up selling the center section that I had as I couldn't find a stock replacement axle and couldn't justify spending good money on a set of billet 28 spline axles.......so...... I went nuts

This is WAY overkill for my under powered heap but I know I can beat on it without fear of breaking anything, and it will support whatever I can throw at it. It's basically a Strange Pro Iron center with Moser billet 31 spline axles.

The idea is once the rear end is in I will get the exhaust done, upgrading from 2 1/4" compression bent exhaust to 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust. I like H pipes but thinking of an X pipe to mellow the sound of the cam out slightly, it is a sleeper after all. Once that's done I'll take it in and get a roller cam and 10" converter upgrade and ask to get as much streetable power as I can out of the current set up, hopefully without needing too much extra work.

I may need to get a new drive shaft but we'll see how the stock one lines up when it's in. The 1350 yoke is pretty big so really the stock drive shaft should be upgraded to a chromoly 3 1/2" unit to suit the 1350 u-joint. The 1310 u-joint looks pretty pathetic next to a 1350.

[Incredible_Serious]

My first real update in what seems like an eternity.

I ended up selling the center section that I had as I couldn't find a stock replacement axle and couldn't justify spending good money on a set of billet 28 spline axles.......so...... I went nuts

This is WAY overkill for my under powered heap but I know I can beat on it without fear of breaking anything, and it will support whatever I can throw at it. It's basically a Strange Pro Iron center with Moser billet 31 spline axles.

The idea is once the rear end is in I will get the exhaust done, upgrading from 2 1/4" compression bent exhaust to 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust. I like H pipes but thinking of an X pipe to mellow the sound of the cam out slightly, it is a sleeper after all. Once that's done I'll take it in and get a roller cam and 10" converter upgrade and ask to get as much streetable power as I can out of the current set up, hopefully without needing too much extra work.

I may need to get a new drive shaft but we'll see how the stock one lines up when it's in. The 1350 yoke is pretty big so really the stock drive shaft should be upgraded to a chromoly 3 1/2" unit to suit the 1350 u-joint. The 1310 u-joint looks pretty pathetic next to a 1350.



20190525_134049-1280x720.jpg

Mate, that's waaaaay overkill for an Irvine 2.5......

[RC10th]

I wonder how many Irvine 2.5's it would take just to turn it over? The pinion cartridge alone without seal should be 20-25 inch pounds of torque to turn.....

[Incredible_Serious]

I wonder how many Irvine 2.5's it would take just to turn it over? The pinion cartridge alone without seal should be 20-25 inch pounds of torque to turn.....

[romulus22]

About time......

[RC10th]

About time......

Yeah, the big "move" really put a damper on things. This is originally how I wanted to build the rear end and was finally able to scrounge up enough funds, although it created another problem with the drive shaft, lol.

I'll get there one day, hopefully I'll get it done this year ready for spring.

[romulus22]

At least your doing it the way you wanted. So many times I wish I would have paced myself with things. But at the same time just getting it done so you can play makes the work rewarding too.

[RC10th]

I thought I updated this but I guess not. Slowly getting there, just not enough time or energy to really dig into it.

Here are a few tools me and a buddy made. I tell you what, I'm glad we did as it made assembly/disassembly a breeze. I couldn't imagine trying to do it without, 220ft/lb is a heck of a lot to put on the nut. The tools we made were the engine stand holder, pinion yoke holder, adjuster nut wrench and a couple press tools to make pressing the bearings easier.

A pic during assembly, the shim stack shims included in the assembly kit were pretty crappy. They included one .017, a few .011's, .008's and .006's. After pressing the bearings and torquing the pinion nut they lost .001, and in the end .001 either way was the difference between being too tight or too loose.

All done, and the cat approves. Only thing left to do before bolting it to the housing is to swap out the ring gear bolts one by one with ARP ring gear bolts, I wasn't happy with the kit supplied bolts.

[RC10th]

Not much to update, just bolted in the third member. I thought this was a cool photo so I figured I'd post it.

[Incredible_Serious]

Not much to update, just bolted in the third member.

You building a Frankenstein monster with a social life or something?

[RC10th]

I'm building lots of things.........


...........when I have time.

Not much to update, just bolted in the third member.

You building a Frankenstein monster with a social life or something?

Why not ?