Some more YZ10 870c chassis

[stickboy007]

Figured I'd post some pictures of these after "completing" them. The first one here was actually in quite good condition when I got it. I made a few relatively minor changes (original ball cups in rear, original magnesium steering knuckles/hubs, RCPS steering brace, Reedy Sonic 10TD, new shock collars, pink wing, new TR9/TF9 tires), but more or less wanted to keep this 870c non-modernized (i.e., all hop-ups are from the era - RCPS steering brace, RCPS turnbuckles, Jammin' upper deck, AE gold shocks, etc.).

I'll post pics of the next one soon. That one will take a bit of a writeup...

[stickboy007]

This second one was built to be a runner with some more modern components. After having finished it, though, whether or not I'll run it or let somebody else run it is another question

This started off as a parts car with RPM front/rear bulkheads, so I figured that would be a good baseline for a runner build. A&L steering rack. Aluminum front arms with aluminum Kyosho Optima C-hubs and RPM steering knuckles. Front and rear hex conversion using Lazer ZX5 universals and HPI wheel hexes. Andy's rear arms with some kind of molded rear hub carrier. I absolutely have no idea who made that hub carrier. I just took it from one of my other 870c chassis and threw it on here, since the molded part should last longer than the magnesium hub carriers. I originally thought they were a Kyosho part, but I haven't been able to find a Kyosho part that matches it. It has almost the exact same shape as the original magnesium part, with extra holes to make it interchangeable as a steering knuckle. If anybody has a clue as to who made this part, please let me know.

Top deck, lipo trays, bumper, and shock towers are from rccars4sal. Very nicely done and, especially for the rear, I don't need to drill any extra holes for the inner camber link ball stud to fit properly along the RPM rear bulkhead (with the original tower, you have to drill another hole slightly further up to allow the inner ball stud to fit). I did have to do some Dremel work on the upper deck, though. For some reason, my chassis is longer than the upper deck had allowed with its mounting holes, so I ended up slotting them for better fit and for belt tension adjustment. Also, the little mounting nubs that the upper deck slots through on the bulkhead caps are larger on the RPM bulkhead than the stock bulkhead, and so I had to bore those holes out a bit on the carbon upper deck.

Front and rear shocks are from Gmade. I thought about putting big bores on here, but opted instead for these Gmade units which are considerably less expensive (about half as much as an AE shock set). Despite the price, I am rather pleased with them. The shock bodies and shock caps are aluminum, while the bottom cap is all plastic (that's the cheap part, but the seals are good and the shock movement is very smooth). The threaded shock collar does not have an inside o-ring (another place where money was saved) to hold the collar in place firmly, but honestly, it doesn't seem to matter so much on these shocks. They adjust easily, and I don't see any reason why they would migrate significantly during a race.

Maybe it was the hingepins that shipped with this chassis, I don't know, but I did find myself having to bore out the rear inner hingepin holes on the bulkhead to get them to slot through nicely. Otherwise, they were way too tight. Same for the front bulkhead. Very strange...

[hondaman]

I'm curious about your rear hub carriers as well.. I have a set that I put on the rear of my "mule" project.. I also have the RPM bulkheads and I had a similar issue with the hinge pins but I got mine together.. I think it works better as the arms rotate instead of the hinge pin.. they look good though.. nice 870C's..

Shawn

[rccars4sal]

I had 1 of those rear hubs, couldnt match it up with anything, and could never get any info on it. Heres what i do know. It holds the axle at a different level than the mag hub, and has Im pretty sure some toe angle. If you have 1 of thos and 1 mag hob on back, then the car will require different trim between acceleration and coasting. So,, basically,, the plastic hub aint a direct swap for the mag hubs,, its slightly different.

[stickboy007]

I see. Well, some rear toe-in would actually be good for this chassis. Still need to find out who made that part, though...

The only other molded rear hub that I was able to find as an option here was Kyosho OT-45 (Optima rear hub). You have to trim the bottom a bit to make it fit within the arm, and the lateral offset is larger than the stock hub, so you'd need a larger dogbone to really make it work. I didn't have any of the right size for this while also doing the hex conversion, so I nixed that plan and went for these other, unknown hubs.

[GoMachV]

Any chance they could be SRS? I can't find a pic. The only other I could think of are Andys but they would have the logo

[hondaman]

Well, I just checked my SRS hub carriers I have NIP and they are them.. Had them all this time and didn't compare them.. Thanks Jeff..

Shawn

[GoMachV]

Lucky guess!

[stickboy007]

SRS? Who are they?

[rccars4sal]

Any info on the pack as to toe angle?

[hondaman]

Unfortunately no info.. It looks like the sticker fell off.. I bought these off shodog along with some other Yokomo Parts a little while ago.. Maybe if he see this he might remember or one of the resident Yokomo guru's..

Shawn