Turbo Inferno parts needed in US - So Cal

[Skaiend]

Hello Turbo Inferno fans, collectors, and parts people. I'm going to take an early 90's Turbo Inferno out of long term storage. Approximately 27 years. I have lost the manual, so I feel completely lost. Additionally, it's been so long since I did any work on this car, I'm intimidated to tear it all apart to clean it and rebuild it. I'm afraid I dont remember how to service the diffs, shocks, etc.

I'm blown away how little information I can find online about this car, parts, etc...

I have a short list of items I know for sure I need to start this project:


XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX


My car is in really rough shape. It was unfortunately ran in a really rocky environment and its pretty banged up.

If you have any recommendations or parts, thank you in advance for your help. It was suggested I should post pics.

Since I'm an old guy, I will try to figure out how to do so...

[Skaiend]

I tried to post my first pic. It didn't work. I'm getting an error message that says my file is too big... I'll try to figure it out later day...

[GoMachV]

On mobile at least, when you choose the pic at the bottom of the screen it shows the image size- you can click the choose image size and I just pick large, it will knock it down to something more suitable.

[lexster76]

Hello Turbo Inferno fans, collectors, and parts people. I'm going to take an early 90's Turbo Inferno out of long term storage. Approximately 27 years. I have lost the manual, so I feel completely lost. Additionally, it's been so long since I did any work on this car, I'm intimidated to tear it all apart to clean it and rebuild it. I'm afraid I dont remember how to service the diffs, shocks, etc.

I'm blown away how little information I can find online about this car, parts, etc...

Hi Skaiend,

thanks for sharing your build!

Many vintage Kyosho Manuals are available online. Here is a link for the Turbo Inferno.
http://www.retromodelisme.com/manuel_page/170/turbo-inferno-manual-english-japanese-kyosho.html

I have put together quite a bit of information on the classic Inferno in Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyosho_Inferno with links to various sources, but if you need more detailed information you came to the right place.

For paint I can recommend Faskolor by Parma https://parmapse.shptron.com/c/faskolor-paint-shop which I have used since I started restoring these cars. With a bit of mixing you can get very close to the color of the plastic parts. Here is pic of my Turbo Inferno.

Kyosho Turbo Inferno
by lexster76, auf Flickr

I am not sure about a titanium chassis, the standard is aluminum. Lavigna might know if there was a Titanium version produced by another company. Tough to find a new original, but if you want to drive the car one should probably just leave it as is, or you can sand it down and have it re-anodized. It depends on how damaged it is.

If you replace the screws with titanium ones, make sure to keep the originals in case you ever decide to sell the car. It will be worth more with the original screws (and all other original parts). You can use BC Super Blue Liquid to make them black again if necessary. It is available on Amazon.com
Try to make sure you have all the original screws first before upgrading.

Looking forward to seeing the pics!

[Prince Steve]

Great to see you are venturing into this project Skaiend. I'll keep an eye out for you as I go through my stock.

[Skaiend]

Thank you for the comments, and suggestions. I'm surprised the car would be worth more with the original screws, but I will heed your advice.

I did buy a complete stainless bolt kit today online. I'm guessing that too, was a bad decision?

I really would like a new chassis. The one I have now is not blue, its titanium. I bought it in 93 if my memory serves me correctly. I must have at least one more box of parts somewhere. but I can't find it. I suspect the original chassis is in there, but I could be wrong.

My current chassis is pretty torn up with lots of big gouges on the bottom from rocks and such. Unfortunately, I did drive the car a few times in really rocky terrain and it took a beating.

I think I found the chassis part # (BSW-60). Can anyone confirm I am correct?

I think I'm going to service the shocks tonight. Anyone have an opinion of what weight oil I should run? I think I have 20/25/30 weight shock oil. I was thinking maybe 20 in front, 30 in the rear?

Thank you all very much for helping this old guy restart his memory after all these years...

BTW, I have taken a bunch of pics of the car as it sits now, but it's really rough. I'm embarrassed to post pics of such a beat up car...

Thanks again RC friends. Stay safe...

[Skaiend]

Oh. I forgot to mention this tidbit. I found an original Ron Paris competition motor in my engine box today. I'll post pics of the engine too.

I think the engine is from 92 or 93. I can't remember if I bought for my Mugen or this Turbo Inferno...

[Lavigna]

Skaiend - Welcome to the site. This place is a great source for vintage info and photos. I have 2 Turbo Inferno build threads you may find helpful. I received your message, but I am going to answer here so that others may benefit from the information.

My first suggestion is to be patient and enjoy the rebuilding process. Once it's all put back together, it's likely to just sit around again, and you may be kicking yourself for any cut corners or missed opportunities to make it the best it could be.

Please don't be embarrassed at the state of your car. The more pictures you can post the better we can understand your situation, and offer help and suggestions. Plus it will be great to compare the before and after photos.

Please post pictures of your titanium chassis. I have never heard of or seen one and am curious about it.

In my opinion, retaining the original hardware does nothing for the value of the car. Unless it is a brand new and 100% original shelf build worth $1k+, nobody cares what hardware is used. The stainless kits are a great choice, especially for a runner. They look clean and won't strip like the original stuff. I never loved the look of the original Kyosho Phillips head hardware. Also, the finish on their hardware is pretty crappy. Even brand new Kyosho hardware can look haggard and worn. I see some very clean builds with crappy looking original hardware, and in my mind it detracts from the build. When I do use original hardware on my Kyosho builds, I spend a lot of time finding pieces with good coatings on the heads, or I re-do the coating using Birchwood gun blue.

If you are doing a rebuild of the car, I would suggest that you open up the diffs and have a look. It doesn't take long and it's not difficult. It's always interesting to see what condition you find. It will run no matter the condition of your difs, but the build (re-build) is actually the best part.

Those front and rear chassis braces are cool. Did you change the front end over to 17" nuts on the wheels?

Yes, BSW-60 is the correct part number for the chassis.

I am not sure what was originally specified for shock weight, but I think your 20/30 idea is just fine.

Post lots of pictures and keep this thread updated on your progress. Best of luck!

[lexster76]

In my opinion, retaining the original hardware does nothing for the value of the car. Unless it is a brand new and 100% original shelf build worth $1k+, nobody cares what hardware is used. The stainless kits are a great choice, especially for a runner. They look clean and won't strip like the original stuff.

That is correct, the impact of the original hardware on the value of the car depends on the condition of the car itself. Having spent many years buying, fixing and re-selling these cars to finance the hobby I have noticed however that it makes a difference to the amount of interest the car gets during an auction, even if they are used. But we are getting ahead of ourselves, my advice is simply not to throw them away when one replaces them for an aftermarket set. For a runner the titanium kit definitely has advantages.

That Ron Paris engine sounds interesting and you already have quite a few aftermarket and optional parts on that car including what looks like a Kyosho steel main gear (BSW-19)? Was it used competitively at some point? At first glance it seems to be in good shape!
If you can't find the BSW-60 which was the official replacement chassis for the Turbo Inferno, you can also use BS-108 from the Inferno 4WD. The original chassis for the Turbo Inferno was apparently a BS-108 which was blue anodized. I noticed you have the shock absorbers from the Turbo Burns / Inferno 4WD. Could it be that you have a modified Inferno 4WD rather than a Turbo Inferno?

I am looking forward to seeing more pictures, and as Lavigna said, take your time and enjoy the process!

[Skaiend]

Lavigna and Lexter,

Thank you for your thoughts and encouragement. Here are some responses in no particular order...

I am about 99.5% sure this is a turbo inferno. I have replaced the original chassis once already. I will post a pic... I have a box of missing parts somewhere. I just emptied out a storage unit I've had for years and found what appears to be all but 1 box. I'm sure the original blue chassis is in that box, along with a lot of other spares. I'm guessing the shocks are in that box as well? I dont normally throw things away, so I think the original turbo inferno box, manual, etc are there too...

I got into the hobby by chance, because a friend of mine was in to it. I used to race Superbikes back in the mid/late 80's and this was my first new hobby after retiring. As with all things, I usually go all in when I find something I like...

To be honest, I was struggling with addiction in the early 90's and can't even remember building this car. I do remember going to an indoor track in Covina, CA that had a store specializing in 1/8 scale stuff and racing. I went in the store and remember buying every racing part they had in stock in the store.

I had lots of spares of everything I could imagine ever needing, including multiple sets of shocks which is why I think these aren't original to the car.

I will defer to you two as to whether this is an MP3 or an MP4. You are clearly the expert's and I'm trying to remember what I did in a drug induced fog 27 years ago...

I did race the car for about a year, maybe a year and a half... lots of local racing, but I did enter a world championship round in Hemet California in 94 if my memory serves me. I remember being blown away by the teams that came from all over the globe and how bitchen their set ups were...

I did pretty well and won the "B" main. It was like a 45 minute race and I had a couple friends in the pits to act as my crew for refueling, etc...

Btw, in looking at my car just now to take pics and post here, I realize I have not 1, but 2 Ron Paris race engines. I have 1 in the car now, and a spare...

I "think", but I'm not sure, that I have titanium driveshafts. Can you tell by the pics im about to post? I do have the carbon brake rotors and the big gear you mention. I think I have a hot rod clutch too.

I will do as you suggest and open up the diffs, but I dont have any more gear oil that I can see. What do I put in the front/back/center riffs? I seem to remember I put the super sticky, heavy stuff in the center, and I can't remember about the others...

Pics are coming....

[Skaiend]

First pic shows the chassis, the second one shows the Ron Paris engraving on the engine, the third and fourth show the axle and drive shaft I'm curious to know about...

[Skaiend]

Do these pics of the body and wing provide any additional insight?

[Lavigna]

Cool to hear you raced Superbike. I used to race the local series AFM, and motocross before that.

I can only see your rear drive shaft in the pictures. They appear to be the standard dog bone drives, not the upgraded universals. I certainly don't think they are titanium as they look rusted. The tie rods appear to aftermarket Lunsford units and are likely titanium. Maybe that is what you are remembering.

I can't see the brakes.

Based off one picture, the chassis sure looks like a standard Inferno DX/4WD chassis to me. However it's hard to tell the material type from pictures.

The body is the stock Inferno body.

You can use any type of grease you have in your garage to rebuild your diffs.

[Skaiend]

I too raced in AFM sanctioned events. Sears, Laguna, Willow, and Riverside were my regular hangouts. Dont remember if AFM was ever at Laguna, but I enjoyed riding there...

As for my car, I guess I should stop guessing, take this thing a part and figure out what it has and what it needs. I have found a few issues:

Cylinder head top cooling fin is cracked.

Front steering arm is broken, and I must have epoxied the thing.

Top center aluminum brace is brent forward

Pipe is dented

Left front shock tower is bent backwards

I must not remember correctly regarding the chassis. I did find an extra Mugen chassis, so I'm guessing that's what I remember. If this is not an MP4, is it an MP3?

I will look through the manual and figure out what parts I need and get a list together...

Here are a few more pics of my damaged parts...

[lexster76]

Hi Saiend,
wow both yourself and the car have an amazing history! It is so cool that this car as actually taken part and won races. Personally I would try to preserve as many parts as possible to keep those memories, but that might just be me.

Honestly without the original box, manual or visual clues to indicate that it was an MP4 (Turbo Inferno), it is no longer possible to tell. From a performance standpoint I honestly wouldn't worry about it though. Other than the tires, anti-roll bars, shocks and wing, the standard MP4 had the same parts as the MP3 that actually had an influence on the performance. Even then, it is arguable which of those parts truly enhanced the performance and under which conditions. You can find a table with a comparison between the various classic Inferno models on the Wikipedia page. You have already increased the specs on your car way beyond what a stock Turbo Inferno had.

I guess the question is what you would like to restore it to from a visual point of view and to which extent you want to match the box art.

If you want to go the MP3 route you will need a Lexan wing from Marwan, this set of Decals, https://mciracing.ca/products/blank-sct10-9ced88f8-3377-4c83-a508-db4e6a715e65 a set of yellow BS-105 wheels and BS-40 tires.

If you want to go the MP4 route then you will need a green BSW71KG/IFW213 wing, BSW80KG wheels and W5646H tires (wouldn't use the latter for driving though, they are rare...).

I guess the next question is if and how you will be driving it in future, and to what extent you want to preserve the memories which are in the wear and tear of the car. I would say if you are going to continue driving it, only replace the parts if they are actually broken.

The aluminum plates can be bent back into shape, and sanded down if necessary. Otherwise you can get new ones relative cheap and I am sure members can help you there too.
As lavigna mentioned, those rear dog bones look standard and it seems to be the standard BS-108 chassis. Other than the usual nicks at the front, the latter looks to be in good shape!
The servo saver will have to be replaced, I am sure a member can help.

Lavigna makes a good point concerning the diffs. The originals do not have seals to contain diff oil and were meant to be greased, otherwise you will need to tear them down and refill them frequently (speaking from experience). This is unless you happen to have a set with a rubber seal at the end (see diff on right). Unfortunately they had the same part number as the standard version, Kyosho just upgraded them at some point. If you don't have the rubber seal, it is best to stay with grease.

Differentials Burns to Turbo Inferno by lexster76, auf Flickr



Keep on posting!