Fixing up the Frankentruck(s), the fleet of them

[Frankentruck]

The MRP Ripper is also a choice for parts. About 90% the same as T3.

I picked up a supply of MRP Ripper parts, most of which look like they should be compatible with the T3 frankentruck. The main things I wanted in this batch were the slipper clutch parts and gearbox top shaft.
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[Frankentruck]

The eGT that I built for my father-in-law just came back to me. He felt bad that it doesn't ever get run and just sits on a shelf. If that's a criteria for feeling bad, I'm in trouble.

I had been considering building another eGT for me to use as a basher / runner. I guess that's solved now.
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[Frankentruck]

I think I'm beginning to appreciate the B4/T4 slipper setup. I've been seeing that the screws attaching the spur to the outter slipper plate in the earlier configuration seem to work themselves loose. I might need to either rework the hub to use more than 2 screws, or use some screws with heads that I can safety wire together.
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[juicedcoupe]

Purple Loctite. It's made specifically for small fastners.

Don't use any more than necessary and try not to get much on the spur.

[Frankentruck]

Got a Loctite item number? There might be several purples.

[juicedcoupe]

Locktite 222, low strength.

I've also seen an equivalent at Harbor Freight before.


It also makes a good thread sealer on small NPT fittings. I use it on nitrous systems and brake lines.

[Frankentruck]

It's now an RC10T Graphite. Gearbox is mounted and steering is sorted out. All that's left is pick the receiver, ESC, motor, make a front bumper, and add an undertray. I did some wet sanding work to mostly clean up the underside and don't really want to add new scratches. An undertray sized for the aluminum chassis will work, but will be a bit wider than needed (which is ok). I just need to go ahead and order a couple of them.
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Sometimes it's hard to leave things complete without tinkering some more. I have an extra coffin style chassis plate, and then I ended up with this painted nose plate that I stripped down to the blue finish.
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PXL_20230223_222555259~2.jpg (46.61 KiB) Viewed 242 times

PXL_20230223_222555259~2.jpg (46.61 KiB) Viewed 242 times

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[juicedcoupe]

Why short wheelbase? Shouldn't a truck use the longer setup?

[Frankentruck]

But then this cool graphite chassis came my way. It was sold as a T2 chassis, and the shape is similar to a T2 pan chassis. But it's setup for a 1st gen stealth gearbox so it must be for a T. Hmmm...
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Interestingly, it looks to be a black/white/black sandwich construction similar to the TQ10 chassis. Maybe the same company made both of these chassis. Maybe?
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[Frankentruck]

Why short wheelbase? Shouldn't a truck use the longer setup?

I don't know, should it? I tend to start with the short wheel base position by default but I'm relatively inexperienced with setting up the T.

[MarkyDents]

Sure does look like a Composite Craft RC10T chassis, would look real good with a Factory Works top deck.

[Frankentruck]

Sure does look like a Composite Craft RC10T chassis, would look real good with a Factory Works top deck.

Oooooooo! Yes it would! I mean, if I knew what that top deck looked like. Got any pics?

[juicedcoupe]

Why short wheelbase? Shouldn't a truck use the longer setup?

I don't know, should it? I tend to start with the short wheel base position by default but I'm relatively inexperienced with setting up the T.

The original 10T used a buggy length chassis and the long wheelbase holes in the nose plate. The T2 used a longer chassis.

That said, using buggy bellcranks in the front holes makes for better steering geometry.

[MarkyDents]

Sure does look like a Composite Craft RC10T chassis, would look real good with a Factory Works top deck.

Oooooooo! Yes it would! I mean, if I knew what that top deck looked like. Got any pics?

You can thank Jason for this one.

[Frankentruck]

Interesting. That's a buggy, but there's a similar one for the truck?