Hex axle option

[JosephS]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

So I am following up on this for my truck build. I can’t find a solid source for this but it seems that the b/t 4 had a 25degree kick up instead of 30 so all caster blocks would be advanced by 5degrees.
So a 20 degree b4 block on a 10t will be 25.

Does that sound right?

[juicedcoupe]

Yes.

[JosephS]

Yes.

Thanks. That helps.

[juicedcoupe]

The 20° block seems to work best, but they can be hard to find.

The 30° block is most common. However, that is a lot of caster. Also, it can have clearance issues with some control arms.

[JosephS]

For anyone curious. I did one block using a drill bit as out lined and was unhappy with the fit, though it did fit and work. I tried a 10mm reamer next.

I will confirm using a 10mm reamer on steering block will not work. It removes too much material from the rear of the carrier to seat the metric bearing. It fits and is smooth but the rear bearing has no support.

[BeastyShout]

I’m just now starting this conversion on my B4. Bought the 9880 steering blocks. Now, just need to source the correct hex axels and bearings.

May play around with B6 parts to see if any of them will work.

[BeastyShout]

Looking at the B4/SC10 steering blocks (#9880), I noticed that the bearings were only slightly smaller than 5X10X3 mm bearings.

I reamed the steering blocks with a 25/64 drill bit by hand. The fit on the 10mm bearings is tight.

I also had to open up the center enough to allow the axle to pass through.

I tried a rear inner hub bearing and it tightly fit the 9880 block, although the center was too narrow for the 71127.

[BeastyShout]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?


So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

Hey Joseph, did those bearings work out for you using the 9880 & 71127?

[JosephS]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?


So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

Hey Joseph, did those bearings work out for you using the 9880 & 71127?

Nope. I wound up using the Traxxas axles and hub carrier to make my conversion. Been running that on my T2 converted to HEX with no issues at all.

I also found a number of the original AE sc10 axles at original prices.

-Joseph

[BeastyShout]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?


So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

Hey Joseph, did those bearings work out for you using the 9880 & 71127?

Nope. I wound up using the Traxxas axles and hub carrier to make my conversion.

For future reference, Traxxas part #s:

TRA3736 - steering blocks
TRA5116 - bearings (need 4)
TRA2754 - stub axle pins
TRA3637 - axles
TRA1985 - washers
TRA1654X - aluminum wheel hex ($9)
or
TRA3654 - plastic wheel hex ($3)

Total: $25 or $19 depending on the wheel hex.

[JosephS]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?


So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

Hey Joseph, did those bearings work out for you using the 9880 & 71127?

Nope. I wound up using the Traxxas axles and hub carrier to make my conversion.

Do you remember the part #s?

Looking at this thread
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49138

I used
Traxxas
5116
3736
3637

RPM
82063
70842

[BeastyShout]

Back from the store and having put the Traxxas setup together, a couple of notes pertaining to the RC10B4:

1. the Traxxas axles are long for Buggy options. I used four of those shims/washers (listed above) sandwiched between the hex and the wheel.
2. Associated wheels work. Raw Speed wheels won't.
3. The Traxxas hexes suck. They don't clamp on so they'll fall off whenever. Makes sense because they were designed with bashers in mind who rarely ever take wheels off so it's a non-issue, but for racers, the hexes don't clamp on, so be careful when swapping tires. Or just never take the wheels off. It's possible that Associated clamp on hexes might work. I'll have to see.
4. You'll need to bore out the king pin hole.

Otherwise it's a cheaper alternative that is widely available.

[BeastyShout]

I took juicedcoupe's advice and did the combo of the Traxxas aluminum steer block and the ASC71127. I have the four of the shims/washers stacked between the block and hex. The axle is secured with a servo screw because the head is wide enough to keep the bearing in place.





And the Raw Speed wheels now bolt up with no issues.




Part #s ASC71127 + TRA3636A + TRA1985

The servo screws you’ll have to source on your own.

[BeastyShout]

B6 caster and steer blocks work on the B4.

[BeastyShout]

For future reference: B6 (gullwing) arms with a B4 bulkhead. (this could potentially solve the expense/rarity of B4 front end parts as the B6 parts are a bit more robust)

- The bulkhead pivots will need to be drilled out with a 3.10mm bit.
- A bit of material will need to be dremel'd off the forward hinges of the arms to free it from binding with the bulkhead.
- 1mm spacer could be used inside the hinges, but if it still binds, I'll try the 0.5mm spacers.
- The B6 also has flat arms if you wanted to keep the geometry closer to stock.